There's a fine line between paying homage to tradition and historical significance, and respecting modern-day influences to stay relevant and fresh. Such is the case for long-time friends and industry veterans, Eli Brennan, director, and Chef Alan Tse, culinary director, co-owners of and , once known as the Edward Hotel, an iconic 1906 heritage building.
Since his teenage years, Brennan's been a fixture in the hospitality industry, first as a dishwasher and prep cook at a local restaurant in the Cowichan Valley, then busser, bartender, server, and general manager with the Sequoia Company of Restaurants, and for a time, an independent restaurant consultant.
Brennan was eager to strike out on his own in 2017, and simultaneously, Water St. Café's original owners were looking to retire. Today, he works alongside business partner Chef Tse, and operating partner and general manager Sandy Grant.
"We've been upgrading ever since and brought it into the modern dining scene," reveals Brennan. "In 2019 we renovated upstairs and took it back to that 1920's speakeasy look, and opened 2nd Floor Gastown, a live music venue with nine different live shows seven days a week."
"In May 2022, we renovated downstairs—a complete overhaul—from the kitchen and bar to the dining room. We wanted to make it look fresh and unique, while honouring the history of Gastown, the building, and the restaurant’s legacy."
They offer two experiences, both elevated casual dining. The main room downstairs, enveloped with floor-to-ceiling windows, overlooks the cobblestone streets and glow of Gastown's gas lamps, while upstairs, you'll dine among local artists seven nights a week, plus Saturday and Sunday brunch. Music crosses blues, indie, folk, and jazz genres, among others. "We'll have upbeat rockabilly one night, a jazz trio the next," says Brennen. "It's a variety of upbeat high-calibre music."
The menus reflect à la minute scratch-cooking brunch, lunch, and dinner, with West Coast and Italian influences. Highly skilled in all types of cuisine, Chef Tse sources fresh local ingredients and brings quality culinary expression to the plate with imagination and flawless technique.
For signatures, look to their fresh pastas and house-made gnocchi, bison carpaccio with truffle aioli and crispy capers, and the crab cakes, suggests Brennan, who notes they've been on the menu since 1988, a classic among some solid staples that will forever remain.
The beverage program leans local and strongly represents B.C., with hand-crafted cocktails, spirits, and wine. "I think we have one of the best B.C.-forward wine lists in the country, with the most unique selection," admits Brennan. “When we support local businesses and communities we all grow stronger.”
From date night to special occasions, Brennen gets excited about creating a memory for somebody. "We're proud to offer especially unique experiences for all celebratory moments in life."
Their secret to success is underpinned by approachability and unpretentiousness, which Brennan reveals almost matter-of-factly. "No matter who comes through our doors, we're going to treat them with true hospitality, respect, approachable pricing, elevated dining and quality service. And creating those memory moments, so people come back time and again."
"Our team has the utmost gratitude to everybody who came out and supported local independent businesses, especially restaurants, through the pandemic. It's an honour that people choose us to spend their earnings within our four walls."
Brennan and Chef Tse have extended their hospitality to their second venture, Qualicum Beach Café with operating partner and Chef de Cuisine Todd Bright, which opened January 2021 in the Qualicum Beach Inn, enhancing the culinary scene on the Island. "We brought what we're doing here at Water St. Cafe, enhanced our menu to reflect local purveyors while honoring our Italian tradition. Bringing Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»Hospitality and culinary expression while wrapping it in Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»Island heart and charm.”
Water St. Café is featured in the 2023 Profiles of Excellence Magazine
