When it comes to pulling the proverbial culinary rabbit out of the hat, no one does it quite like David Hawksworth. When West Restaurant opened in 2000, few knew of its young, West Vancouver-raised chef, who had already cut his teeth in such celebrated U.K. kitchens as Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons and L’Escargot.
He first emerged as a contender for Vancouver’s crown vying with Lumiere’s Rob Feenie in a legendary battle before opening his own flagship room, Hawksworth, and adjacent Bel Café.
Now comes Nightingale(1017 West Hastings St., 604-695-9500), in the exquisitely reincarnated premises of the old University Club, incorporated into a new tower on Hastings just west of Burrard. The interior behind the heritage façade — which today sports a more polished heritage air — features a lively, lower level lounge below soaring ceilings, with the expansive dining area on the mezzanine.
While Nightingale is definitely not intended to be Hawksworth 2.0 (the mood is far more casual), the similarities are unmistakable, with an air of elegance, a seasonally evolving menu that champions all things Canadian, and attention to detail at every turn.
The elegant lounge bustles later in the week, but it’s the more contemporary upstairs that’s drawing raves for its array of share plates such as the Pacific halibut ceviche finely sliced with lime, avocado, radish and quinoa, oven-roasted baby turnips with greens and grilled pork belly with nectarine, white balsamic vinegar and pistachio. An unexpected highlight was the nutty maitake mushroom, which arrives with pecorino, brown butter and hazelnut. From the dessert list, you can’t go wrong with the smooth and seductive pot au crème.
The expanse of booths and paneled of decor reminds me of those classic, upscale, clubby London or New York grand hotel rooms. But there’s more here than meets the eye, including some cleverly concealed booths across from the open kitchen. Not to mention the airy chef’s table for 12, with its glimpses of Coal Harbour, overlooking Cordova Street.
Overall, prices are moderate, especially considering the surroundings, drinks inventive and wines well thought out.
Aside from his obvious culinary prowess, Hawksworth has always shown a knack for accurately reading the times. Nightingale’s upbeat personality in a classic setting, along with refreshingly uncluttered local plates that steer shy of overworked hyperbole adds up to a sophisticated and satisfying downtown lure.
11 a.m. to 12 a.m. daily,
Liquid nitrogen assets
Just landed in Yaletown, Mister(1141 Mainland St.,) puts on quite the show. This sparse but smart ice cream parlour makes ice cream fast frozen with liquid nitrogen. Flavours are impressively pure, with everything made from scratch. Once the liquid nitrogen (from a trio of giant tanks at the ready) contacts the cream it freezes rapidly —and creates a swirling fog.
Some of the best ice cream I’ve ever tasted includes a crème brûlée, finished with a hand torched crackled caramel top, creamy avocado, dark chocolate with cocoa and zesty lemon frozen yogurt. Flavours rotate depending on availability of local ingredients.
Belly’s Best Bet
Coteaux Varois Terres de St. Louis 2015
Citrus hints, followed by zesty and nectarine notes with good acidity on a fresh palate 90 pts, BCLS $19).
Cabaret Cotes de Provence Rosé 2015
Pale rose-coloured with light peach and stone fruit on the nose, good mouthfeel and zesty hints. 90 pts (BCLS $20).
