Earlier this year, 's longtime owner, Hervé Martin, had a couple of big surprises.
The first, Martin shared during a recent media luncheon, was in April, when he had a heart attack.
The next was the following month when a regular customer of the Main Street French restaurant suggested Martin may want to sell his business to a contact of theirs. Martin felt ready to retire, and plans were underway for the business to change hands. The new owner would be establishing a French-Japanese restaurant in the space, carrying on some elements of Martin's veteran dining destination.
And then, as Martin prepared to say "au revoir" to his business and guests, the unthinkable happened.
Or rather: "It did not happen."
The deal fell through.
"It was a big shock," said Martin.
Now the business owner had to scramble. Having spent about six weeks winding down operations at The French Table, he now had just a few days to put things in motion to reopen before October 1, when the new business was supposed to have taken over.
He made it happen, but not everyone knows The French Table is back in business, and it's the same as it ever was.
Martin is adamant about keeping the menu traditional at The French Table.
The dishes, which are executed by a veteran French chef (who is "sometimes too French," jokes Martin), represent classic fare from several French regions.
"We have never tried to be fashionable"
That means you'll find cassoulet from southwest France, Boeuf Bourguignon and Coq au Vin from Burgundy, and cheese fondue from the French Alps on the menu, all made with respect for the dish's origin.
"I want the people to be here and have [an] experience similar to the one they would have if they were in the in the dish's region of influence," describes Martin.
"We have never tried to be fashionable," the restaurateur admits. "We are just French traditional, but it is what we are."
What that means is a menu that reflects a journey through France and cherished dishes, from duck terrine with onion marmalade to comforting Bouillabaisse with fresh local seafood, and, of course, French bread to soak up all the broth.
The Moules Frites features plump and fragrant mussels with beautifully crisp and salty fries.
When it comes to cassoulet - a hearty dish of confit duck leg with a bean stew - Martin says every French household will have their take. The French Table's take reflects what a true labour of love a cassoulet is, from the house-made sausages they begin with to go into the stew to the tender slow-cooked duck.
The French Table also prides itself on offering authentic meat, cheese, and chocolate fondue services. The meat fondue is done in the traditional Burgundy method, which is beef you cook in a pot of Pinot Noir with aromatics. The cheese fondue is also done the traditional way with no shortcuts (i.e. with a Bechamel sauce base) but rather the trinity of Emmenthal, Gruyere and Appenzeller cheese simmered with white wine, garlic, and Kirsch.
For dessert, the aforementioned chocolate fondue, or cream puffs (profiteroles) with a rich chocolate sauce, or a pear and almond tart.
Local distiller's Creme de Cassis a partnership with Martin
The wine list showcases selections from B.C., the United States, and France, while the bar has many house and classic cocktails, and is pouring one particularly special liqueur: Vancouver's . Martin was actually the impetus for the local distiller making and bottling the traditional blackcurrant liqueur; his neighbour is Odd Society founder Gordon Glanz and the two partnered up to make the product using B.C.-grown fruit.
The French Table's unexpected re-opening is an occasion to raise a glass in celebration, but Martin - who is still looking forward to an eventual retirement - is hopeful new and returning guests will come in to experience what the restaurant offers.
"We're going to continue to do the same thing," Martin pledges. "It was successful before. There is no reason why it should not be successful."
The French Table is located at 3916 Main St in 麻豆传媒映画and is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and nightly for dinner from 5 p.m. until late.
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