This weeks column is coming to you from Portugal, a quick tour in advance of the current Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»Playhouse International Wine Festival. I was using this as a reconnaissance tour, sprinting right past port in favour of exploring the incredible values in table wines made from a host of indigenous grapes such as the dark fruit and plum-laden Touriga Nacional for reds, the peachy and elegant Encruzado for whites, plus many more tongue-twisting varieties from all points of the spectrum, often blended together.
The trip, sponsored by the Portuguese wine industry, had about 35 of us from all around North America. This cast of pretty zany characters spent way more time sitting on a bus and standing around than actually tasting in wineries since there didnt seem to be much organization or direction when it came to our itinerary, or lack thereof. The country, with its endless selection of mysterious varieties and styles, remains much of a mystery to many of us on this trip, due to what ended up being way too much aimless loitering wondering where we were heading to next, when the bus would pick us up or where we would sleep that night.
I visited only six wineries in six days, plus a couple of small general tastings, with no overview or context provided. Id hoped to come back with a clear idea of where the Portuguese wine industry is at, or at least some element of direction or common goal Portuguese wineries hope to achieve so they can increase their market share in the New World. Alas, while there were enjoyable times, some decent dinners and I certainly dont take these occasional industry opportunities for granted, many of us found our experience indicative of why Portugal is not making larger strides in our wine market. A very tight marketing campaign providing simple education of Portuguese wine basics in B.C. (and elsewhere) could certainly go a long way.
Aside from all that, and the important thing, is that many of the wines coming out of Portugal are quite good. From the crisp, bone-dry whites of Vinho Verde, perfect with the bright, salty fish dishes of the coast, to a good handful of red blends, perfect for tucking into charcuterie, sausage, steak and potatoes, which are common Portuguese dinner table staples. Some of the most interesting wines we tried were from wineries that had a very clear concept of the specific style theyre going for. I was also a fan of places that werent afraid to try new things to help people wrap their heads around elements a little easier, whether very smart, comprehensive labels, or giving things like Syrah a whirl, in a country not known for the grape.
Frankly, Id never even mention the casual frustrations of a trip the last thing I want to do is sound unappreciative or arrogant if it didnt illustrate the potential Portugal has and opportunities they are missing, areas where they can ideally present their wines properly, at home and abroad, so you can have more confidence when hitting their section of the wine store.
will get you on your way, along with the following two bottles. Heres hoping Portugal steps up their program; their wines totally deserve it.
Quinta do Crasto 2010 Branco | Douro, Portugal | $24.99 | BC Liquor Stores
A white blend thatll be a crowd-pleaser, equal parts floral, citrusy and tropical. Medium bodied with a slightly oily texture, theres a bunch of character with this one that will play well with halibut, poultry, olives and nuts.
Caves São João Porta dos Cavaleiros Red | Dão, Portugal | $16.99 | Liberty Wine Merchant Stores
An absolute stunning and complex rich red with blackberries, cocoa, espresso, leather, herbs, purple fruit and perfect dusty tannins. A fine old-world bottle at a killer price that tastes like it should cost twice as much and be served with any carnivorous fare that strikes your fancy.
For more Portuguese tips and recommendations, hit up .
