A little over a month ago, WE made mention in the Fresh Sheet that Josh Pape (The Diamond) and James Iranzad (Cartel, Abigails Party) had partnered up to open a new restaurant at 120 W. Hastings. They hadnt chosen a name or hired a chef just yet, so there wasnt much to report on. With at least one restaurant or café opening in Gastown (or on its increasingly precious periphery) every month for the past two years, the news wasnt worthy of these column inches, but it is now.
Normally, whenever I write an opening soon piece, I detail four or five interesting restaurants that are in some stage of construction. This week, Im concentrating on just this one because its the most interesting restaurant Ive had the pleasure to reveal to WE readers in two years. And thats saying something.
The new restaurant is going to be called Wildebeest. We all know that to be a rather shaggy-looking African ungulate that migrates in absurdly dramatic fashion and is considered especially attractive by crocodiles, lions and Sir David Attenborough. Thankfully, Wildebeest wont be serving wildebeest, nor any cuts from any other hoofed African creature. And thats a good thing, as wildebeests arent particularly tasty. (Yes, Ive eaten it).
So why the name? Because it sounds cool, translating as wild beast from the Dutch vernacular. It also gels comfortably with the food concept, which sees refined but unfussy meat-forward comfort food designed to appeal to professional chefs and serious food-lovers. These are types unimpressed by fancy for fancys sake. Some might even call these diners wild beasts.
When I first got wind of the project, I was told that we could expect whole fish, chops, off cuts and the equally guttural fare on a menu that cared not a whiff for fashion. For conceptual comparisons, Iranzad suggested I look to Animal in Los Angeles (AnimalRestaurant.com) and The Black Hoof in Toronto (TheBlackHoof.com). Both are casual, critically acclaimed restaurants that stand out in their respective cities for their love of uncommon ingredients (eg. beef heart), unlikely combinations (eg. foie gras with maple sausage gravy), and unique plays on old favourites (eg. oxtail poutine).
It would take a bit of courage to open something along similar lines in Vancouver. Though were an adventurous bunch, weve yet to see much in the way of carnivorous exploration beyond the delicious dabblings of a handful of local kitchens (see Refuel, LAbattoir, and a few others). To anyone but restaurant wonks, that could mean one of two things: either a concept like Wildebeest is overdue and were all quietly keen for it, or that Iranzad and Pape are about to walk off a cliff. Is there a market for a place like Wildebeest here in the land of The Naam, Earls and Cupcakes?
Of course theres a market! Its just that it doesnt exist yet. Should you doubt the wisdom in that, ask yourself if there was a market for a wine and charcuterie bar down a dark, sketchy alleyway in Gastown five years ago...
The chef theyve hired is David Gunawan, the former top toque at South Granvilles West. Thats a huge score. Gunawan started at the critically acclaimed restaurant as a chef de partie back in 2007 (during David Hawksworths famed tenure), and rose to the very top, ruling one of Western Canadas top restaurants for a little over a year. Unfortunately for us, he left for Europe last year, having landed the opportunity to cook at Belgiums rustic, Michelin-starred In De Wulf. Its a major win for Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»that hes coming home.
His draft menu reads like a catalogue of fabulous that is totally bereft of ubiquity. Think venison tartar with tarragon, pork jowl with maple syrup, scrambled eggs with bone marrow, and so on. Ive promised not to elaborate, so Ill just say that it sounds unapologetically sinful. Diners will be hard pressed to find a dish at Wildebeest that theyve eaten elsewhere.
It follows that Gunawans food should be buttressed by strong wine and cocktail programs. Theyve tapped former Salt Tasting Room staffer Lindsay Ferguson to handle the wine side of things, which will be extensive (theyve purchased a 12-bottle Oenomatic machine), and co-owner Josh Pape (a former Bartender of the Year) has already penned his drinks list. Its a departure from the classics, and geared toward food pairing (two words: bacon bitters).
As for the open concept room, which is long and brick-lined with high ceilings, we can expect an old, clean, industrial look with antique pipe work, candlelight, reclaimed wood, a living wall of herbs, an open kitchen with chefs table, custom bar stools, and a 40-seat wine lounge in the basement.
So, to recap: killer name, sweet lineup of talent, great location, superb concept. What more could one ask for? Weekend brunch? You got it. As word of it spreads, Id wager Wildebeest will soon be seen as the most exciting restaurant project under construction in this city.
Yeah, it wont open until the spring, but the buzz starts now.
