No matter how much there was to love about 2011 and how high my hopes are for what Ill be served in 2012, if I had to make any prediction for the year ahead, its that well remain in the same holding pattern that weve been in for the last year, treading water. Not unhappily, but treading water nonetheless. The uncertainty in world markets, the over-saturation of our dining landscape, and the still stupid rules regarding the distribution and sale of alcohol (not to mention the heavy tax burden facing restaurants) have all combined to put innovation and the deliciously unfamiliar too deeply into the realm of risk for many restaurateurs to give it the old college try.
But does that mean well see more street food, more pizza, and a maintained focus on affordable, casual dining? Though none of that is a bad thing, Im afraid so.
To wit, Terry Deanes long-anticipated is expected to open at some point this week at 654 East Broadway (just west of Fraser), and there are at least two other unrelated pizza joints that are in the process of securing their locations. By this time next year, we should have over a dozen first-rate pizzerias, which is up from pretty much zero just a few years ago. That number doesnt include the many restaurants that have one or two pies on their menus as auxiliary enticements. The bar menu at Hawksworth, for example, has a lovely pizza alla amatriciana on offer, and the black truffle pizza at Market in the Shangri La is a thing of happy fevered dreams. Good pizza, it seems, is here to stay, and there was much rejoicing.
For street food, the bigwigs at City Hall are already putting together their new committee to decide the next crop of vendors, so Im pretty confident that we can expect a spring and summer full of new and exciting sidewalk eats. Id love at least one newcomer to serve up ramen in the style of Kintaro; another doing nothing but gyozas; another layering peameal bacon sandwiches (a la Torontos Kensington Market); another cramming Chinese steam buns with all manner of meats and sweets; another concentrating solely on deep fried arancini; another dedicated to veal and chicken schnitzels; and... what time is it? I blacked out there for a sec. You get the idea. Street food is not a trend. Its like a show thats too smart for TV but, miraculously, keeps getting picked up by the network for a new season.
As far as restaurant openings, we can as we did in 2011 expect dozens upon dozens, and thats where the fun really is. Ill wager a meal in each that the overwhelming majority will be decidedly casual. That isnt to say that were done with fine dining. Far from it. Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»is a uniquely casual market, one that is almost wholly bereft of the expense account culture in other big cities. Were hardly able to sustain all the fine dining restaurants that we have now. Sadly, there are more than one of their number currently whistling past the graveyard.
Predictably, all of the restaurant projects that are currently generating buzz are aiming for as broad a clientele as they can manage, and that includes the suits. Witness the coming of James Iranzad and Josh Papes Wildebeest, due in the new year at 120 W. Hastings. Their eccentric wine bar is geared toward foodies and restaurants industry types but thats a wide net in these parts, and the chef, David Gunawan, will likely draw in the well-heeled that he impressed during his tenure at South Granvilles award-winning West.
Similarly positioned is Mark Taylors Siena, slated for 1485 West 12th this February. Though famed for his more formal Cru on West Broadway (winner of not a few accolades), his new establishment aims for the everyman with simple, inexpensive Mediterranean fare. Likewise LOfficio, brand new to 3687 W. 4th (the first restaurant that I want try in 2012). The owners of the critically acclaimed (and white table clothed) La Quercia are primed to open this tiny, evenings-only wine bar right next door for those who looking for a quick Italian nibble and glass without a reservation. Theres also the new Cactus Club (that persistent den of egalitarianism!), which is slated to open in time for the spring rush on English Bay. And if were really lucky, Vikram Vij of Rangoli and Vijs will give us something new to sink our teeth into on Cambie (weve been waiting a while on that one).
There will be more, of course, and thats the one mark of consistency that has me really stoked for 2012. If one restaurant is swallowed up, the Darwinian nature of the landscape dictates that another will quickly rise in its place. With that trend continuing, I raise my fork and glass.
