Idid a double take a few weeks ago when I got word of The American Cheesesteak Co.s coming at 781 Davie (off Howe). It wasnt because it was the first Id heard of the restaurant (though it was), but rather because it was the first Id heard of celebrity chef Anthony Sedlak in a long time.
After the Food Network star of The Main unceremoniously removed himself from the Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe project (while it was under construction in 2009), I thought wed see him return a lot sooner to headline something new and fresh with a little money behind it. Truly, not in my wildest dreams did I ever imagine wed witness the young fellow using his celebrity to flog the lowly Philadelphia cheesesteak. Sedlak is a very competent chef, so this new gig strikes me as a punch well below his weight class.
It turns out that the guy hits hard, and right in the gut. If youve never heard of a cheesesteak, its a Depression-era invention attributed to Harry and Pasquale Olivieri, two brothers in the City of Brotherly Love who diversified their hot dog stand offerings with shaved hot beef and onion sandwiches on soft, lengthy rolls. These became so popular that they opened a restaurant (Pats King of Steaks) that offered a range of sandwiches based on their original. Though Pats still calls it a steak sandwich, it long ago entered the popular lexicon as a Philly Cheesesteak after the popular addition of cheese, specifically provolone and wait for it Cheez Whiz. So highbrow, it aint.
Back when I was a lad of 18 or so, I worked at a restaurant that had a proper cheesesteak on its menu. I can vividly remember its thickly layered meat melting on my molars with a mess of day-glo, heart-squeezing Cheez Whiz swirling on my tongue. It was a thing of unconscionable self-indulgence, and I loved it as dearly as Ive missed it. Until I walked into The American Cheesesteak Co. last week, the experience hadnt been replicated in 20 years.
Ah, but does Sedlak do them properly? Of course he does. Hed be the least competent chef in the world if he couldnt copy something this easy, especially after having travelled to Philadelphia on research. To see Sedlak doing it is kind of like watching Cody Hodgson play stick ball with Third Graders.
Its also money in the bank, as evidenced by how busy the place is, night after night. The shadow owners who I know next to nothing about except that they have plenty of money and plans for rapid expansion of their brand have likely struck gold. Attaching Sedlaks face to their unimaginatively named company signals to the foodie set that this isnt just another one-hit wonder fast food restaurant, even though it absolutely is.
The design aims for a fast food diner feel, but achieves instead the sort of formless plasticity one expects of a restaurant filling guilty desires on the quick and cheap while inspiring its customers to leave as soon as theyre done.
Happily, a good cheesesteak can be enjoyed regardless of ambiance. Youll want to start with The Philly, which is shaved prime rib and cheese (opt for the Whiz). Depending on the size, itll set you back $8 or $10. If it doesnt gross you out entirely, return for the more substantial Cowboy, which is overrun by bacon mayo, BBQ sauce, aged cheddar (melted) and tiny shards of breaded onion ($10/$12). I much prefer it to Le Biftek, which is fancified with globs of double cream brie that wrestles with onion jam and Dijon under a blanket of arugula ($10/$12). Id order The Big Shot out of curiosity (wagyu beef and fontina cheese floating on a gratuitously pretentious spread of truffle aioli) but Id be wary lest any passing Philadelphian punch me in the face for Yaletowning their tradition ($18/$22).
Theyve certainly diversified for all comers. For chicken lovers, theres the hand breaded (phew!), fontina-covered Milanese with tomato sauce, onions, peppers and mushrooms ($10/$12). For vegetarians (seriously?), theres The Good Earth, which is essentially a double fist sauté of sliced portobello and forest mushrooms mixed with a Greek salad on bread ($9/$11). Despite how hideous that sounds, it was actually quite delicious, or at least a waking moment of sense from my meat coma. There are several others, too, and a few ancillaries. To wit, medium-cut french fries are given a lick of garlic seasoning and tossed with parsley and Parmesan ($4/$6); onion rings are thin, crispy and not all that greasy to the touch ($4/$6); and best of all, theyre licensed. To drink, skip the mean, bloating milkshakes and choose from their limited selection of beers, wines and spirits.
It may not be for everyone, but I have to hand it to The American Cheesesteak Co. for identifying a hole in our food scene and filling it. Honour is due.
781 Davie | 604-681-0130 | AmericanCheesesteak.com.
