Im a bit of a cheeseburger nut. I dig poultry ballotines, foie gras parfaits and other culinary strikes of fancy, but when it comes to desert island fare, Id much prefer to eat a proper cheeseburger every day for the rest of my life than fiddle with anything delicate. Theyre wonderfully versatile, inviting cooks to gussy them up in myriad ways, but I like them as simple as can be and whenever I hear of a new restaurant pimping a really good one, its pretty much guaranteed that Ill be there within days of its existence meeting my ear.
Ive had many favourites in the past (Feenies, DB Bistro, Moderne Burger, Refuel, Stackhouse, Save-On-Meats), but none ever emerged as the number-one-supremo-extra-double-mega best of the bunch. There are ancient affections to consider, too. On any given Wednesday, Ill take a White Spot burger with Triple-O sauce over all of the above. Theyre hardly gourmet, I know, but cravings are deep-rooted beasts, and they must be appeased. So truly, picking a favourite has been no easy task.
Burgers werent on my mind when after an afternoon whirl in Strathconas McLean Park I took my kids around the corner from our house to Au Petit Chavignol, a restaurant that, despite its proximity to my front door, I never get to enough.
It opened a few years ago out on East Hastings as a wine bar offshoot of the newest location of the venerable cheesemongers, les Amis du Fromage. At the time, I gave it top marks for its wine selection, cured meats and inclusion of cheese in just about every dish (their raclette is particularly superb). I also gave them props for courage and patience. It took no mean amount of both to open a sleek little wine bar on the 800 block back then. While Gastown and bits of the DTES have improved some since their opening in 2009, these parts remain a little sketchy. To see it busy is always a relief.
Once at table, I took note of the fact that co-proprietor and master fromager Joe Chaput had put a cheeseburger on his menu. A novelty, I thought, fully thinking that Id just go with my usual fondue, this time a steaming cauldron of Beaufort, Cantal and Gruyere cheeses (to be stabbed with sizzled kielbasa and crunchy gherkins). Its what the kids wanted, and did I mention something about cravings needing to be appeased?
But the more I thought about it, the more I was tempted. Au Petit Chavignols chef, Jenny Shearman, is no slouch, and Chaput is widely considered one of Vancouvers principal authorities on cheese. Put the two together and whatever they come up with has got to be worth a bite. Indeed, when a member in good standing of the Guilde des Fromagers Confrerie du Saint-Uguzon (thats Joe) steps up to takes his turn as a cheeseburger designer, you pay close attention.
The result is the best cheeseburger in Vancouver. It really is the best engineered of the bunch. It starts with the bun, which is a simple, pliable kaiser made by Island City Baking Co. When I say pliable I mean that it squishes down when pressed but doesnt lose its integrity after a few bites. It cups the patty better than Victorias Secret ever could, and isnt encumbered with seeds, onions or any extraneous flavouring. Id been on a brioche bun kick for a while, but this was perfect in its plainness.
The patty isnt a monster; proof that size doesnt matter: 5oz of ground AAA chuck, sourced from Cioffis Meat Market & Deli up the road (4156 East Hastings). Its tidily seasoned and lathered with a special sauce that intentionally mimics the one used at the famous Shake Shack in New York City. Its cooked to medium-medium rare pink, doesnt fall apart, and is gloriously toothsome.
For cheese, youre given the choice between Leerdammer, three-year-old raw milk cheddar or Gorgonzola. Since Gorgonzola tends to overwhelm the flavours of anything near it, I zeroed in on the others instead. The cheddar lends the full package a barely perceptible sharpness, but its the Swiss-like Leerdammer that elevates the burger to the top shelf. Perfectly melted under crisp lettuce, two wheels of tomato and a few thick slices of double smoked bacon (also from Cioffis), it is pure gold, the sort of thing that can make one weep. (I very nearly did).
The base model which includes a pickle and a helping of very good Yukon Gold frites (kosher salted) presented with a side of mayo is $12. But it isnt the best without the extras. It requires the lettuce and tomatoes for an extra $1, and the bacon at $1.50, making for a total that comes to $14.50. Granted, thats a bit on the high end for a burger and fries, but I wouldnt shy away from it at $20.
It really is that good.
843 East Hastings, 604-255-4218,
