I ve been producing and presenting a bunch of BC wine education seminars to people in the restaurant and retail trade on behalf of the BC Wine Institute over the last month. Its allowed me to focus and reflect on our local industry. As with any global wine region, there are a variety of opinions about where we should be, whether were talking what grapes grow best in our various micro-climates and the style of wine we should make with them.
The broad consensus throughout these seminars has been that BC wines have improved greatly over the past 10 years. As we understand our terroir, we are finally moving away from trying to emulate wine styles from other parts of the world, and are more comfortable in our own skin. This means a little less focus on tough-to-ripen grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon (though quite hot, we do have a fairly short growing season after all) and not masking the purity and expressiveness of our fruit with too-heavy oak or other winery manipulations.
The style we seem to do best, and what wine drinkers around the province seem to be drinking, are fresh, aromatic and bright styles that allow our grapes to sing with lofty acidity and regional character, from our mineral-rich soil to occasional refreshing hints of Okanagan sagebrush.
It could almost be said that Heidi Noble and Michael Dinn of Naramatas were ahead of their time in recognising these traits and taking full advantage of them. When the amiable couple left their restaurant and wine agent careers in Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»to produce wine in Naramata back in 2003, there were 81 wineries in British Columbia. A decade later, were now at a very ambitious 209. In fact, the growth is so rapid I feel that even though this is a weekly paper, I should put in the caveat that were at 209 wineries as of this printing.
The style of wine that JoieFarm produces, along with winemaker Robert Thielicke, has always centred around aromatic whites inspired by Alsace with a couple labels giving a nod toward Burgundy. Theyve been some of the most sought-after wines coming out of the Okanagan year after year, for good reason. Not only have they always understood the potential of our wine country and what we do best, but their wines are among the most suitable for the way we eat in British Columbia. Whether colourful vegetarian fare, fresh seafood, South Asian or Indian cuisine, the wines coming out of JoieFarms tiny Naramata winery almost a decade later continue to set the bar for expressing the sunny Okanagans character, vintage after vintage. Its always a sure sign that summer is on the way when their new releases make their way to Vancouver.
Heidi and Mikes wines are available in private wine shops, VQA stores and many local restaurants. A couple of favourites:
JoieFarm 2011 A Noble Blend ($23.90)
Made for al fresco dining and plenty of cheer with friends, the blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Auxerrois pairs local orchard apples and pears with tropical lychee and guava elements that will have you topping up your glass often.
JoieFarm 2011 Riesling ($22.90)
An off-dry style that makes it a no-brainer for any Asian fare that has some heat to it, the lemongrass, mango and floral opulence will dovetail with exotic flavours perfectly.
JoieFarm 2011 Rosé ($20.90)
Predominantly a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, this perennial favourite is no stranger to local wine fans. Juicy and full of cherries, plums, nectarine and white pepper, pair it with chicken, duck, halibut, salmon, steak, rabbit, turkey, bison, pasta, leftovers, sushi, popcorn, chocolate bars, anything!
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