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Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»has certainly come a long way on the pizza front in the last decade. We have evolved past our Pizza Hut origins to a plethora of restaurants that tout the benefits of Type 00 flour, San Marzano tomatoes and all things Napoletana. And, yes, that thin, slightly-charred crust with its light smattering of toppings was a welcome change from the fast-food reality we grew up with.
It’s worth noting, however, that Naples doesn’t have the exclusive on pizza. Just look at Rome, for instance, which is famous for its slightly thicker, chewier crusts that are served as squares or slabs, and are often served cold, sandwich-style. Then there are the American iterations, like the New York slice, the Chicago deep dish or the Detroit red top.
We’ve been a bit limited in choices beyond the standard Naples style, but that’s happily changing, as a few new openings prove.
JC Poirier, the chef behind Ask for Luigi, Pizzeria Farina and The Pourhouse, has expanded with the opening of Joe Pizza, a new Roman-style pizzeria in Gastown. The large corner space is bright and the eye is immediately drawn to the line-up of slabs behind the glass along one side of the counter. Here, you will find 10 or so varieties available by the square ($4.75 to $5.75), half ($17 to $22), or full slab ($32 to $40). A half-slab has about six generous squares, while the singles are slightly larger (if you need more than two, you must be perishing). The toppings here aren’t as authentic, perhaps, to classic Roman sensibilities as Trilussa on Main Street, but they’re not trying to be.
The dough is fantastic, and thanks go to talented baker and chef de cuisine Annabelle Choi. Local, organic flour is always a nice touch, as is the dusting of cornmeal that gives a crispy crunch around the edges, but the texture is what makes the pizza here sing. It’s dense yet light, chewy but not stiff. Toppings are solid and thoughtfully chosen. Local vegetables, good quality cheese, it’s all here.
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The Mr. Chop, for example, is a fun take on a Hawaiian, with prosciutto cotto, aged mozzarella, pickled jalapeno, and the requisite pineapple. The spicy-sweet combo makes for a lovely mouthful. Pistachio, mortadella and provolone is a slice best served cold. This is where you really appreciate the dough fully, as most cold pizza has the sad tendency to settle and harden. This slice, however, remains texturally perfect. A favourite was the Pop-Pie, with pea purée, spinach, fresh ricotta and lots of pancetta. You can eat it cold, but this one I preferred warmed up, with the slight melting of the cheese and the crisping of the bacon.
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It’s even licensed, meaning a local beer or some wine is an easy pairing. Throw in a cone of the classic soft-serve for dessert and you have the full meal deal.
Across town at Kingsway and Fraser (or on Robson, if you’re downtown), Straight Outta Brooklyn serves up New York-style pizza by the slice and full pie. This casual joint comes from the Morra brothers, the pair behind the award-winning Via Tevere. While the crust here is similar to Neapolitan pizza, with its thin, slightly-charred crust, it’s also a bit crispier. The tomato sauce is bright and punchy and the toppings range from classic pepperoni or Margherita to the funkier W.O.P (without peppers), which Ìýfeatures salami, ham, artichokes, mushrooms and olives. Slices hover around $5, while whole pies run $12 to $17.
If you really want to appreciate the crust (which is worth appreciating), go for the simple tomato pie. No cheese on this one, just the sauce, some oregano, garlic and basil and a drizzle of good olive oil. The garlic and oregano make another appearance on the Bianca, a four-cheese winner made with mozzarella, smoked provolone, ricotta and grana padano. Vegetarians (and non) will appreciate the basil pesto pie, with cream, artichokes and pine nuts.
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The standout for me, however, was the pepperoni. It’s such a clichéd topping that there’s almost no point in ordering it, it seems, but it’s good here. The standard carboard-topped-with-an-oil-slick experience is completely absent. Instead, it’s the decidedly good crust topped with the same tomato sauce that has made Via Tevere so popular, along with some excellent pepperoni and aged mozza. No oil slicks, just cheesy and slightly spicy, as it should be.
No liquor license, so you’ll have to content yourself with pop, but, for pizza like this, I’ll make the sacrifice. Look for a third location opening up in Chinatown soon.
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