I’ll admit it: I’m a sucker for a pretty bottle or can. If a beer’s labeling catches my eye in the liquor store, I’m probably going to buy it. I don’t think I’m alone in that respect.
And so it was that I noticed Strathcona’s Raspberry Saison from two aisles over on a recent trip to grab provisions. The soft pink wax-dipped bomber with the matching pink vintage-style label is a looker, and I bit. And I’m glad I did.
Strathcona has done a great job of expanding its repertoire over the past year, and Raspberry Saison is one of their most interesting beers yet. The name does the beer a bit of a disservice, however, because there’s a lot going on here — certainly more than you’d expect from a standard saison.
Firstly, the beer was aged in a Cognac foeder — a foeder is a large wooden vat, by the way — imparting some oak and tannin depth. After fermenting with a traditional spicy saison yeast strain, it was then refermented with funky Brettanomyces — a “wild” yeast responsible here for notes of hay, wet leather and a lusciousness that helps complement the raspberries.
This big Belgian-style sour farmhouse ale could probably benefit from a stay in the cellar for a year to mellow out some of the acidity and tannin, but it’s good to go right now.
Funky, sour beers aren’t for everyone, I know — but if you’re game, give this one a try. Much like the packaging, the flavours are bold and hard to ignore.
Raspberry Saison by Strathcona Beer Co. (7.4 per cent ABV)
Appearance: Deep, brilliant ruby red with a fleeting light pink head.
Aroma: Acidic, tart raspberry, oak, fruit, funk.
Flavour: Tart raspberry, acidic, dark fruit, oak, vinous, earthy, brandy, moderate brett funk, pepper.
Body: Light-medium body with a dry, acidic finish.
Pairs with: Mussels with white wine, stanky-ass cheese,
• You can find B.C.’s favourite craft beer guide at your local brewery, select private liquor stores, and on newsstands across the province.
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