I received a text message from my friend Brooke a short while ago, wondering if I knew of any great service staff who were looking for some part-time shifts. Brooke is the General Manager of Maenam, Chef Angus Ans internationally-acclaimed contemporary Thai restaurant in Kitsilano. I surprised her by offering to step into the ring myself for a spell if shed have me, as even though I have quite a full plate at the moment with consulting, writing and so on. Truth: I have a three-week trip to Australia coming up and the last thing I want is to have to pinch my pennies while Im there.
I respect Brookes wine palate, and was interested to learn how she builds her wine program around Thai food, much of which has significant heat and so is commonly washed down with beer. Thirst-quenching white wines are a natural fit: off-dry Rieslings for bright stone fruit and perhaps a kiss of honey to latch onto the lingering heat of chillies, Gewürztraminers to bring lychee and floral elements to what is already exotic fare, or the lime-laden juiciness of Austrian Grüner Veltliners can all stand up to the big, bold flavours of Thai cuisine. But with reds, thats where things get difficult.
In such cases, Ive learned you have to be comfortable straying from the norm. Many dry reds, particularly if theyre full of mouth-puckering tannins, are simply too clumsy with spicy, exotic food, buffering out flavours while only enhancing the heat. As with whites and Thai, you dont want to go too dry. Lean instead towards something full of fruit with perhaps a touch of sweetness.
Here are two of Brookes favourite red finds. Next time youre ordering Thai or anything else exotic and spicy leave the beer in the fridge and give one of these off-the-beaten-path reds a try.
Tibaneli Kindzmarauli 2008 Saperavi | Kakheti, Georgia | $17 | BC Liquor Stores
From the Republic of Georgia, possibly the oldest winegrowing region in this world, comes this juicy rich red from the Saperavi grape thats chock full of stewed dates, figs, raisins and blueberries with plenty of cloves and cinnamon spice. Certainly a little sweet, theres some fresh acidity that keeps it from cloying and the fruit keeps singin from the first sip through the long, long finish.
Schloss Reinhartshausen 2006 Pinot Noir |
Rheingau, Germany | $24 | BC Liquor Stores
Probably the first Pinot Noir from Germany youll try and you wont be disappointed. Plenty of ripe cherries with notes of rooibos tea, fresh tobacco and some dusty plums in there, too! Theres a touch of caramel or toffee to it that handles spice and bigger flavours nicely.
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