It wasnt that long ago Im talking the 90s here that if your winery was farming organically youd most likely keep that fact under your hat. While the declaration of organic, sustainable or biodynamic farming practices on a wines label have always been viewed as ethically positive, in the eyes of most consumers those words read more like: Caution: Contents Most Likely To Suck.
How far weve come in such a short time. If legal certification and morals werent an issue, you could bet most wineries would now race to have those words grace their bottles in a heartbeat, aiming for the well-educated, healthy-disposable-income niche market who like seeing those words on stuff they buy.
After all, these are the people who spend decent money on wine in the first place. Sure, many wineries have evolved to a high-quality level of production in these areas, but their acceptance is largely due to the fact that consumers have changed: they want to know where the things they consume come from.
Do the presence of those words on your bottle guarantee a great product? Nope, not at all. But when done right, as is increasingly common, fantastic wines can indeed come from sustainable farming methods; whether its organic production, which assures the absence of chemical interventions as in pesticides and herbicides, or biodynamic farming a concept popularized by Dr. Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s involving self-sustaining methods of agriculture that aim to achieve an ecological balance with the environment.
Im a fan of supporting those making great wine from these methods.
The more bottles these wineries sell, the more others dependent on chemicals and other synthetic types of intervention will have to re-evaluate their own growing habits.
Now, Im not saying all wines must be made this way, but there certainly is a niche for those that can offer a healthier alternative. Two suggestions:
Rippon 2008 Jeunesse Riesling, Central Otago, New Zealand | $34-ish | Private Wine Stores
From a well-respected biodynamic producer in a wine region with a heavy cult following comes an incredible example of why so many wine people totally dig Riesling. Minerals, nutmeg and white pepper are drenched in lime and peaches. Jaw-dropping quality with freshness and lively acidity throughout. Pair with mild curries or Asian fare.
Emiliana Adobe 2009 Organic Syrah, Colchagua, Chile| $14.99 | BC Liquor Stores
Proving organic doesnt have to cost a fortune, this Chilean Syrah is loaded with juicy blackberries, currants, cocoa and cloves with well-balanced tannins, alcohol and acidity. Barbecue something and drink this with it.
TASTING NOTES: Need proof our local wine region is growing up? Now (finally!) theres a shuttle service being offered throughout Oliver, Osoyoos and Naramata wine country. $35 per day allows you to hop on and off as much as youd like and makes you enjoy your tasting that much more (OKWineShuttle.ca).
Kurtis Kolt does many wine-related things in Vancouver. Catch him at KurtisKolt.com
