A couple of reports have recently been released by the British Columbia Wine Institute on the state of the industry, which is both healthy and still growing at a considerable pace. To give a little context of where were at, the 200-ish wineries in BC (that number is always in flux) currently make wine from just under 10,000 acres of wine grapes, split almost down the middle between red and white varieties.
While our volume has doubled over the last 10 years, our production is about 25 per cent the size of Washington States and a mere two per cent of Californias output. No surprise that about half of our juice comes out of the hot-enough-for-ya desert climate of Oliver/Osoyoos, where the most hours of sunshine and rugged of soils jive so well.
The big numbers that popped out to me were the figures on Merlot. It is the by far the most popular grape variety we grow, soaring above the others with 1,600 acres planted, producing 16 per cent of our total wine and 31 per cent of our reds.
Pinot Gris comes in second, but not even close with its 1,000 acres producing 11 per cent of our total wine.
So the oft-maligned Merlot is king. Sure, the hit film Sideways gave it a bad name a few years back and those in the wine trade or the upper tiers of society poo-poo it as a simple, boring workhorse grape meant to round out the sturdier flavours of Cabernet when added to a blend but the grape offers a great deal of credibility and there are many reasons for its rampant popularity.
Think of it not as the Nickelback but more the U2 of the wine world.
Sure, it may not always be your thing but its been around a hell of a long time and while it doesnt exactly push the envelope or break new ground, there are always some classics and the odd new one that can still tug at the heart. It could be a ballad, gentle and nuanced with much care and complexity, or it can be the rocknroll wall of sound, something big and bold with over-the-top character and pretty damn fun to immerse yourself in.
I love many BC versions of the stuff whether theres herbaceous and dusty notes enveloping juicy soft cherry fruit, or even an occasional oak-bomb as long as theres a boatload of currants, plums, violets and maybe some mint to stand up to the wood.
Its a crowd pleaser, very versatile food-wise and it doesnt have to cost an arm and a leg.
A couple local favourites:
Winemaker, owner and local Twitter favourite Sandra Oldfield (@SandraOldfield) has made Oliver Merlot the stuff of legend over the last couple decades, this consistent bottling being indicative of her dedication to the grape.
A softer style, I really dig the savoury Kalamata olive and notes of fresh herbs and tobacco along with the more classic elements of black cherry and dark plum.
Pour it with any style of barbecue.
This aint no wimpy wine!
A full spectrum of flavour is jammed in to this handsome little number, from mocha and earthy components to currants, blueberries, spearmint and some toasty French oak giving it confident posture.
Phenomenal elegance and breadth, it will give Merlot-haters pause.
Decant itan hour before pairing it with steak, lamb, mushrooms and jus.
