Victoria, Australia At the home stretch of an epic three weeks in Australia and after visiting almost 40 wineries in eight regions, Im spent. The last couple days, at a point when I could have been both exhausted and bored of wine-tasting I swear it can happen I was fortunate enough to hit three amazing regions producing wines that dazzled. Here, then, a brief summary of my final three stops, each with a recommended bottle that epitomizes regional character. The French call it terroir; the Aussies dont care what you call it, as long as you enjoy the stuff.
Not too far from the ocean toward the southern tip of South Australia, this has to be the flattest wine region Ive been to. Not a single hill in sight. The area consists mainly of a single Napa-esque main road with a parade of vineyards and wineries lining both sides. A cool, maritime climate with soil composed of terra rosa and limestone, the conditions are ripe to grow Cabernet Sauvignon and thats certainly what the area does best. So much so that many wineries from other regions, your Yalumbas and Penfolds, choose to grow their Cabernet here, far from their main operations the setting is too ideal to try and grow the grape anywhere else.
Majella 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32.99, BC Liquor Stores) is made by the Lynn family, whove been tending grapes (and sheep!) around here for over 40 years. This is textbook Coonawarra Cab: dark currants, spiced plum and a lick of spearmint sittin pretty in some well-placed French oak. Theyre most likely to grill steaks when they bust open a bottle. I figure When in Rome...
Warmer than Burgundy but cooler than Bordeaux, the Yarras a cool-ish wine-growing region has rolling hills and a host of soil types. Its the Burgundian varieties, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, that you want to seek from here. They benefit from the temperate climate, having a generous (seven-month) growing season and not sizzling in the sun. I was quite envious of my colleagues in Melbourne, only a half hour drive away from here. Imagine being in a world-renowned wine region in the time it takes to drive to YVR!
Yering Station 2008 Little Yering Pinot Noir ($14.99, BC Liquor Stores) is fun and fresh, with strawberries and cherries punctuated by dried herbs to give it a little soul. When you find Pinot Noir with this much character and finesse at this price-point, buy it by the case. Perfect when youre having fish, poultry or a bad day (or a good day, for that matter).
My wish this Christmas is that local importers will bring in more wines from this up-and-coming hub just south of Melbourne. Between being surrounded on three sides by water and cool air coming in from Antarctica nightly, you bet this is what they call a cool climate region! Perfect for nuanced, stylish Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that are quickly becoming darlings of the wine world, putting to bed generalizations that Australia only does one-dimensional, ultra-rich reds.
Stonier 2009 Pinot Noir ($30, Private Wine Stores) has all those good woodsy, forest-floor characteristics. From mushroom and wild truffle on the nose to currants, berries, herbs and twigs on the palate. Incredible that theyve packed so many aspects into something so light and silky. Mushroom risotto anyone?
Three regions. Three wines. I did plenty of legwork I hope you enjoy the fruits of my labour!
For more on Australias wine country, visit KurtisKolt.com.
