There's a little catchphrase that's been gaining traction around the wine world and I seem to be hearing it increasingly often at tastings, in wine stores and in other common haunts of the bottle. "Anything But Chardonnay" or "ABC" for short is the chortled remark whipped out when someone is looking for a white wine and feel the need to express a dislike for or an exhaustion of the classic white grape variety.
It's an over-the-top, condescending statement meant to illustrate one's distaste for what they see as a style of wine that's too boring, oaky, cheap or pedestrian as if those elements are true to just one wine style, when most of us know that, unfortunately, all grape varieties are more than capable of wearing those negative traits.
Is this expression, and poo-pooing of Chardonnay in general, because most of us learn about or get a taste for it as we begin a life-long relationship with wine, only to dismiss it as we get into more 'serious' fare? I'm sure that's part of it. I'm also pretty confident that the ubiquitous over-oaked Chardonnays out of California and Australia in the late-80s and 90s didn't do the grape any favours either. Fair enough. That extremely rich, super cloying style certainly isn't for everyone.
The diversity of Chardonnay is where its glory lies. Sure, it gets all confident and brash when suited up in oaky armour, but when it's not donning such a heavy cloak, or simply fermented in stainless steel, it can be delicate, refreshing, nuanced and cheery. Dependent on where and how it's grown, it can be a tropical escape, bursting with pineapple, mango, guava and banana or it can be a zippy little flirt, with fresh lime or nectarine, clutching a sprig of white flowers in the sun.
Dressed up or dressed down, from seafood to spice, when it comes to food pairing Chardonnay is known to marry well. Maybe it's time to give the grape a second glance. After all, more often than not, isn't the girl next door the one who doesn't let you down?
A couple bottles to have over to your place:
Winemaker Chris Carson gained his chops in California and New Zealand, but his experience at Montrachet in Burgundy is where he honed his incredible way with Chardonnay. Fresh-cut pineapple and peaches are tempered with the slightest touch of toffee and a fresh minerality. The wines perfect with fish, from scallops to salmon, halibut cheeks and more. Juicy and delicious, you might want to ensure you have a second bottle chilling.
Yup, not only should you re-visit Chardonnay but you should just dive right in and re-visit Australian Chardonnay. Hailing from Margaret River on the West Coast, this lively bottle has apricot and muddled lemon with crushed hazelnuts and cashews, providing nice dimension to the bright fruit on the surface. Not a big oak-bomb, I promise. Id tell you to have it with shrimp on the barbie, mate!, but Ill save my Australian wife from shaking her head yet again at my self-professed hilariousness.
Wines of Argentina are heading our way again, with a trade and consumer tasting at the Sutton Place Hotel on Thursday, September 29. Sure theres loads of Malbec, but give some Torrontes, Syrah and yes Chardonnay a whirl while youre there! WinesOfArgentina.ca
Kurtis Kolt does many wine-related things around Vancouver, follow him up at
