While some lament the current shoulder season leading to winter the leaves falling, the shorter days, constant rain and cooler temperatures I find myself buoyed by the fact that its a perfect time to tuck into some heavier, meatier red wines to keep spirits warm. Sure, there are plenty of grapes that could fit the bill, but more often than not when its time for something thats gonna stain my teeth, Syrah is the one I reach for.
To get it out of the way, lets just confirm right now that indeed we are talking the exact same grape thats also known as Shiraz in many parts of the world. Theres no technical rule that states what you have to call it, but a good rule of thumb is that if were in France, the grapes birthplace, its referred to Syrah. In Australia, where the grape has enjoyed a New World renaissance for decades, youll generally be seeing Shiraz on the label. The trend for the rest of the world has been to refer to it as the former if its being made in more of a French style, while the riper, jammier New World-esque versions will share the name of their Aussie brethren.
Theres a time and place for both versions. I personally prefer the French style, all earthy and herbaceous, with smoky currants, espresso and spice, but when you have that big slab of steak fresh off the grill, theres nothing better than that big, juicy Aussie style loaded with gobs of jammy blueberry, blackberry and equal pinches of eucalyptus and pepper.
Here are some ultra-classic examples, along with a third, local option for those who may want the best of both worlds.
Three Winds 2010 Syrah | Languedoc, France | $13.99 | BC Liquor Stores
Consistently one of the best values on liquor store shelves, this casual little French number offers notes of smoked barbecue (any guesses what pairs best with it?), stewed dates, figs, a few dried currants and fresh-cracked pepper sprinkled over the whole thing. Elegant, medium bodied with dusty tannins that fold in nicely.
St. Hallett 2009 Faith Shiraz | Barossa Valley, France | $19.95 | BC Liquor Stores
The epitome of Barossa Shiraz, and clear evidence that it need not be too sweet, heavy or cloying. Im always impressed with how on-point this one stays year after year. A fruit basket full of dark plum, blackberries, raspberries and dark cherries with licorice and eucalyptus keeping things both lifted and nimble while well-placed oak keeps it all in check. Seems to be made with grilled steak, lamb or maybe even kangaroo in mind. (Seriously, you can buy the stuff from Hills Foods here in Vancouver. With its fine bison-like marbling and lack of gamey-ness, youll be pleasantly surprised.)
Nichol 2009 Syrah | Naramata, Okanagan Valley, BC | $35 | Private Wine Stores or Winery Direct
When asked for excellent examples of B.C. wine, this is one bottle Ill always uncork. It perfectly illustrates how our region can lean more toward an Old World flavour profile, but with structure and concentration that offer New World, fruit-forward oomph! Youll find some dusty, classic Okanagan sage throughout the brambly forest-floor character with dark fruit, mocha and cloves. Its juicy, well-built and made from the oldest Syrah vines in Canada. Again, carnivorous fare will meet its match with this one.
Down Under
Im off to Australia to hit the wine trail for a few weeks! Head over to KurtisKolt.com for updates from the road, and look for regional dispatches over the next few weeks right here in WE Vancouver!
