VADUZ, LiechtensteinNot many people own their own country anymorethe numbers especially small if you exclude those who took power by overthrowing somebody else.
Prince Hans-Adam II doesnt run a big placejust 160 square kilometresbut his family has had Liechtenstein since they created it in 1712 by combining two even smaller statelets theyd bought and made it one of 350 principalities in the Holy Roman Empire. It survived the merging of many of those other states, first by Napoleon in 1806, then by the Congress of Vienna in 1815, which reduced them to the 39-member German Confederation. When the confederation collapsed in 1866, the princes forbears deftly managed to keep their postage-stamp-sized land from absorption by either of its neighbours, Switzerland to the west, Austria to the east.
Early on, Liechtensteinbordered by the Rhine River, but mostly mountainous cow pasturewas dirt poor, so poor that its ruling family, which had better properties elsewhere, didnt bother setting foot in it until 1818. Vaduz Castle didnt become the familys principal residence until 1938.
These days, though, its 35,000 citizens enjoy one of the highest per capita incomes in the world, thanks mainly to the principalitys status as an international banking centreor, some would say, a tax haven. More than 70,000 companies are incorporated in Liechtenstein. Hans-Adam owns one of the nations 15 banks, LGT, and is said to personally be worth well over a billion euros, making him one of Europes wealthiest rulers.
You cant tour his castle, but you can visit his winery, the Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein (Wine Cellars of the Prince of Liechtenstein), in the Red House on the outskirts of Vaduz. The house is more than 400 years old and has a grape press from the 17th century in it, but its only in the past quarter-century that winemaking has become a serious pastime in the principality. The wine-tasting room didnt open until 1998 and even now, says Marco Müntener, the winerys sales manager, were too small to be rated by the wine world.
The prince also has vineyards in southern Austria, but if you want to take home something thats truly of Liechtenstein, buy a bottle of the chardonnay or the pinot noir, both made from grapes grown on the 4.5 hectares of the Vaduz domain. The pinot noirchocolately, smoky, and with more body than many pinotsis especially notable. Pinot noir is a diva, says Müntener, but for this microclimate its the best grape.
Only about 500 Canadians and 4,000 Americans visit Liechtenstein each year, so theres an excellent chance your bottle from the hofkellerei will be the sole one at any gathering. Should you want something even more exclusive, try to get a hold of some Cuvée de Prince. Its a blend of pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, from the Austrian vineyards, and they only make 280 bottles of it. Its a very special thing, says Müntener. Even Ill have no chance to take any.
For more information on the Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein, go to www.hofkellerei.li.
John Masters is a member of the Meridian Writers Group.
