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Are we hosers getting hosed? U.S. options for craft beer put B.C. to shame

They say itā€™s a great time to be a craft beer lover in B.C., but you donā€™t have to drive far to discover we hosers are in fact getting hosed by a surprising lack of options for buying and consuming that sweet, sweet nectar.
How is it that even pharmacies in the U.S. have growler fill stations, but B.C. liquor stores donā€™t?
How is it that even pharmacies in the U.S. have growler fill stations, but B.C. liquor stores donā€™t? Photo Reaon Ford

They say itā€™s a great time to be a craft beer lover in B.C., but you donā€™t have to drive far to discover we hosers are in fact getting hosed by a surprising lack of options for buying and consuming that sweet, sweet nectar. I recently took a road trip through Washington State, Oregon, California and Nevada and found that almost every town between Bellingham and Bakersfield had a bevy of options that doesnā€™t exist here ā€” from breweries and bottle shops, to growler fills at bars, gas stations, and even pharmacies.

For those who arenā€™t familiar, bottle shops are like our own cold beer and wine stores ā€” but on steroids. You can mix and match your own six-pack, fill a glass or a growler from a wide selection of breweries, even grab a cold one from the cooler and crack it open in-store. The shops also act as gathering places where suds-sippers can meet and mingle.

At first, I was only curious. But as the highway wound its way farther south, I became jealous. Even a rustic tavern in Crescent, Ore. ā€” an unincorporated community of 581 people ā€” welcomes travellers with a wooden statue of a sasquatch clutching a giant mug, and a sign reading: Now filling growlers. How could a world-class city like Ā鶹“«Ć½Ó³»­be upstaged by a bump in the road 50 miles south of Bend?

Beer advocate Christopher Pierce, the man behind the popular Twitter account agrees: our corner of Cascadia has some catching up to do.

ā€œIt seems like everybody [in Oregon] is doing the growler fill thing,ā€ he says. ā€œWhether itā€™s your local grocery store, or thereā€™s even some places that are like gas station-growler fill places, just little mom and pop shops.ā€

And donā€™t get him started on the selection at those stores.

ā€œThe place where I buy my meat and my bread and my pizzas, theyā€™ve got between 900 and a thousand craft beers,ā€ Pierce says. ā€œThey hired somebody who was a beer expert to run the place, and itā€™s a tiny grocery store, and everythingā€™s refrigerated. It has a larger selection than any bottle shop that I think Iā€™ve ever seen in Vancouver.ā€

A bar inside of a liquor store? Wonā€™t someone think of the children?? Photo Reaon Ford
A bar inside of a liquor store? Wonā€™t someone think of the children?? Photo Reaon Ford

I didnā€™t make it as far as Arizona on my trip, but the Park Plaza Liquor & Deli in Prescott is a perfect example of the kind of meccas weā€™re missing. The 15,000-square-foot property includes a liquor store, restaurant, bar and cigar lounge, with more than 1,000 beers. Fill growlers? Duh. Build your own six-pack? Yep. Purchase kegs? Why not! How about drink and smoke a cigar while you shop? WHAMMY.

So why donā€™t we have anything like that here? The new assistant manager of Firefly Fine Wines and Ales in Ā鶹“«Ć½Ó³»­points to licensing, legislation and a lack of political will in B.C.

ā€œNo oneā€™s running on a platform of ā€˜Iā€™m going to free beerā€™ and I donā€™t think anybody ever will,ā€ says Farees Kara. ā€œPersonally, I think what needs to be done is look at it as [an absence of] consumer advocacy. CAMRA was fantastic in B.C. in trying, but even theyā€™ve gotten away from advocacy. There doesnā€™t seem to be any organization thatā€™s willing to fight for the rights of consumers and to fight for what we want. Itā€™s all about taxation and regulation.ā€

Kara says some local beer-based businesses have done a good job of expanding their offerings, like Jakā€™s Beer Wine Spirits. And he says the owners of Firefly are also taking a page from Americaā€™s playbook with plans for a major expansion of their Cambie Street location.

ā€œWeā€™re gonna make it a craft beer destinationā€¦ a good third of the store will be craft beer,ā€ he says. ā€œIt will be probably be one of the biggest spaces allocated to craft beer in Western Canada. Maybe all of Canada.ā€

Heā€™s gunning for up to 5,000 sq. ft. of selling space. But of course, size isnā€™t everything.

ā€œWe plan to have taps,ā€ says Kara. ā€œWe plan to have a private tasting room. So if a brewery wanted to come and do an event with some snacks and some beer, weā€™d be able to accommodate them, just like many places do for wine and spirits. We basically want to elevate beer to where wine is. Thereā€™s no reason why someone shouldnā€™t be able to come in and say, OK, youā€™ve got four taps, can I get a sample of each one before I buy some bottles?ā€

To find out what weā€™re missing, you donā€™t need to spend two weeks criss-crossing the West Coast like I did, or go all the way to Arizona. Just head to Bellingham, which is home to 13 breweries, a slew of dive bars and live music venues pouring local brews, as well as the famous Elizabeth Station bottle shop. But consider yourself warned: once youā€™ve had a taste of the craft beer experience in other parts of the Pacific Northwest, it will surely leave you thirsting for more.

  • You can find B.C.ā€™s favourite craft beer guide at your local brewery, select private liquor stores, and on newsstands across the province.

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