Directed by David Gelb
What does it take to become the world's greatest sushi chef? Eighty-five-year-old asserts, You must dedicate your life to mastering your skill. And while the living legend's suggestion is certainly born out in the footage that follows, documentarian David Gelb also details the sacrifices that result from such single-minded dedication.
Compact and unassuming, the Sukiyabashi Jiro restaurant boasts a one-month waiting list and a minimum meal cost of 30,000 (approximately $365CAD). That lofty price tag buys you a scant 15 minutes at Jiro's counter, during which he stoically assembles and serves unadorned creations, some of which he's literally dreamt up. The pieces are met with rapturous approval by his guests but Jiro never quite seems satisfied. For him, there's always opportunity for improvement.
While Jiro's wizened fingers still display an uncanny nimbleness in fusing fish and rice, he possesses little grace when it comes to the handling of his restaurant staff and two sons. Just as his apprentices seem to be masochists capable of subsisting on only the faintest praise, his progeny have gone their entire lives with a father whose sole priority is his craft.
It's Jiro's relationship with Yoshikazu, his eldest son, that lends Gelb's documentary all the qualities of an emotionally-rich family drama. Now in his 50s, Yoshikazu is still waiting to take over his father's business. Accordingly, he only comes out of his shell when he escapes Jiro's presence, finally feeling free to speak of his own aspirations and disappointments.
The sushi on display may indeed be delectable but it's such tinges of bitterness that make Jiro potent viewing. Curtis Woloschuk
