Thomas Haas is unequivocal about what makes for a good croissant.
鈥淏utter and time,鈥� says the master pastry chef. 鈥淯se the best butter available and give it time during the process.鈥�
Words to live by. But these two ingredients (Haas prefers butter from Ireland and New Zealand) really work their magic in his crunchy-outside-yet-fluffy-inside pastries, which, bite by flaky bite, transport your senses from 麻豆传媒映画to Paris.
A couple more secrets for the perfect croissant: Add a couple of eggs and mix the dough very stiff. Then eat them hot.
鈥淥ur croissants taste best fresh from the oven and have a shelf life of maximum four hours. After that, we recommend refreshing them at 350 F [175 C] for three to four minutes,鈥� Haas says. And you鈥檇 be wise to listen to pastry tips from a fourth-generation p芒tissier who has worked for several Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe and big-name New York projects.
Croissants are, of course, only one important cornerstone of Haas鈥� hugely popular caf茅s in Kitsilano and North Van. There鈥檚 the staggering range of incredible chocolate, flavoured with fresh fruit, spices, spirits, herbs, teas and nuts, or straight up dark and milk. Then there are the extraordinary cakes and tarts, the delicate macarons and decadent cookies.
Most of these items can be ordered online, but then you鈥檇 be losing out on the fun of the Haas caf茅 experience. This includes several things beyond quality and variety, Haas says, namechecking authenticity, consistency and friendly, professional service.
There鈥檚 also an X factor involved 鈥� the place must feel 鈥渞ight鈥� 鈥� which is 鈥渕aybe a combination of all of the above, including music tailored to the day鈥檚 energy level,鈥� Haas says
Details, you might have figured, are important in the world of Thomas Haas. What helps in this regard is keeping his team small and dedicated. No future franchise opportunities here: Haas is determined to keep his business manageable, to get better, not bigger, he says.
鈥淥ur plan is and has always been to improve, stay innovative and, at the same time, provide our loyal customers what they expect,鈥� he adds.
鈥淲e don鈥檛 believe in growth. Rarely it makes a business better and it often takes away diversity, just like chain restaurants do in the restaurant business.鈥�
On a wider scale, Vancouver鈥檚 best p芒tisseries can hold their own on a continental scale, Haas believes. But North America has a ways to go to reach the crumbly, crunchy, soft and fluffy heights of Barcelona, Berlin, Lyon, Munich or Vienna, where even the cheapest-looking places can surprise you.
鈥淚n 2011 I went to the World Pastry Championship in Lyon, France and we stayed in this cheap apartment hotel,鈥� Haas recalls.
鈥淎ll you got for breakfast was black coffee and mini croissants. Unexpectedly, they were amazing. Delicate, crispy, but still soft. I think I had eight!鈥�
RECIPE: Thomas Haas Chocolate Sparkle Cookies
(Makes approximately 36 cookies)
Ingredients:
陆 lb bittersweet chocolate (Haas recommends Valrhona)
3 Tbsp butter, room temperature
2 eggs
1 Tbsp honey (Haas recommends blackberry honey)
鈪� cup granulated sugar, plus more for rolling
戮 cup ground almonds
2 tsp cocoa powder
pinch of salt
powdered icing sugar as garnish
Method:
Melt chocolate on top of a double boiler, over simmering water. Remove from heat. Cut butter into small pieces and mix into heated chocolate until melted.
Beat eggs, gradually adding the sugar and honey until light and the mixture falls into thick, smooth ribbons (about 10 minutes). Fold into the chocolate mixture. Add the cocoa powder and salt to the ground almonds and mix. Gently add to the chocolate mixture. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Use an ice cream scoop to form the dough into one-inch balls. Working quickly, roll the balls in granulated sugar and place two inches apart on a baking sheet.
Bake at 160 C for 12 minutes, until the centres are moist but not wet. Cool slightly before dusting with powdered icing sugar.
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Thomas Haas
Various locations
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Gold 鈥撎鼴est Chocolate
Gold 鈥� Best Croissant
Silver 鈥� Best Bakery
