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Wine Fest thrives despite Playhouse's demise

International wine showcase enjoys Chile reception

The empties were hardly recycled after this year's Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»­Playhouse International Wine Festival when news broke last week that the event's prime beneficiary, the Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»­Playhouse Theatre Company, would cease operations.

The irony of the wine festival's near sell-out success compared with the regional theatre company's long and ultimately futile struggle for survival was not lost. However, wine festival organizers were quick to point out that, while they were as saddened as anyone by the Playhouse's demise, thanks to some foresight a few years back, the wine festival itself is not threatened, as it was incorporated as a separate entity in 2006.

Plans are already underway for next year's festival, which will focus on California, and Chardonnay from around the world.

Two realities struck us about this year's event. The emergence of Chile as a force to be reckoned with and the country's role as a leader in organic, sustainable and biodynamic viticulture.

In terms of production values, the wine festival has also progressed. One of the best tastings we've been to in years turned out to be "Chile's Diversity," where the tasters moved around the "tastees"-in this case a veritable all-star team made up of a dozen or so leading Chilean winemakers and winery principals.

Wine's answer to speed dating is up close and personal. And with seven minutes per wine, time is of the essence. But wine is very much about people and place, and the Chileans as a group are a committed, convincing and friendly bunch.

These Chilean wines offer a good example-and excellent value:

. Errazuriz Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (Aconcagua Costa).

Owner Eduardo Chadwick says the coastal terroir is ideal for Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir-and this wine bears that out. An expressive tropical and herbaceous nose precedes tropical, grassy and ripe fruit-the result of blending fruit from cooler and warmer facing slopes. Around $20 at private stores.

. Emiliana Organic Coyam 07 (Colchagua).

Emiliana's Alvaro Espinoza says the introduction of organic farming was as much about protecting the workers than anything to do with the wine. This is a blend of mainly Syrah, Carmenere, Cab Sauv and Merlot. Smoky, layered, complex red berries, plum and spice notes wrapped in supple tannins before a lengthy, still vibrant close. $29.99 at B.C. Liquor Stores Specialty.

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Dine Out may be done but there are still prixe fixe bargains to be found. Check in to Bistro Pastis for their threecourse $35 set menu, offered to month end, with tastes such as duck and pistachio terrine, smoked cod and potato ravioli or slow braised pork shoulder. Call 604-731-5020.

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The restaurant business can be an ephemeral affair at the best of times. But few have been as successful as Bud Kanke, the man behind such stalwarts as The Cannery, Mulvaneys and still rocking Joe Fortes, which he has sold to another industry icon, Keg owner David Aisenstadt.

Some of Kanke's lesser known achievements relate to the sheer number of people who worked for him early in their career, who then went on to succeed in their own rooms. Bud and his wife Dottie were also among the first restaurant philanthropists, who gave often and generously of their time and resources to several charities, motivating others to follow suit. We wish them the very best in retirement.

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