Restaurant anniversary celebrations are a dime a dozen. Yet some add up to true milestones. Cast your mind back 10 years and you may recall that before Andrew Wong opened cutting-edge Wild Rice (Pender at Abbott), there wasnt much to lure diners to that gritty Chinatown-Gastown junction.
Fast forward a decade and Wongs modern Chinese cuisine has not only spawned a few imitators, but is also about to give birth to a second location, at New Westminster Quay. Moreover, the once beleaguered corner where Wong took the plunge is now at the vortex of the neighbourhoods revitalization.
Ever gracious, Wong credits much of his success (hailed by international voices such as Condé Nast) to his chefs, at least a couple of whom have moved on to their own ventures, while current Wild Rice executive chef Todd Bright will partner with him on the Royal City location.
To put things in context, when Wong unveiled the original room, there were mutterings that such locally doctored Chinese small plates were verging on heresy, and the notion of a restaurant that morphed into a late night bar was still foreign.
Opening chef Stuart Irving (Cobre) returns to cook with Bright, former chef Ryan Mah, current downtown chef Heather Giles and pastry chef Caroline Levy at a Sept. 23, five- course celebration dinner ($60, add $15 for smart wine pairings) that highlights Wild Rices unswerving local andalso a groundbreaker for Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»Chinese diningsustainable style. True to form, late evening the scene shifts to cocktails and canapés, with admission ($5) donated to Growing Chefs. More details at wildricevancouver.com.
Affordable Mediterranean fare is the keystone of Laziza, a smartly outfitted, bustling Davie Street room, where locals pack in for classic and contemporary Lebanese influenced plates and more. Laziza and its variations means delicious in many cultures, and this West Enders well-priced offerings, both on the menu and at the bar, are tasty for the money.
Baba ghanouj (smoked eggplant and olive oil purée) dotted with crunchy pomegranate seeds ($7) and organic greens and beets balsamic drizzled salad ($7) made for strong starters, while lemon and caper-poached then grilled wild salmon arrived with plentiful green beans and the restaurants hallmark pyramid shaped wild and brown rice blend ($16). A special of simmered beef tenderloin and tomato goulash (also with beans and saffron rice, $16) unfortunately arrived 10 minutes after the first entrée, delivered unceremoniously before wed come close to finishing our appetizers. Curiously, with no shortage of bodies on hand, servicethough friendly and well-intentionedcan be scattered.
The global wine list is also consumer friendly. Our mineral toned Donnafugata Anthilia 2010 ($34 a bottle or $8.50 a glass) was an appealingly complex and floral, flexible partner. All wines are offered by the glass, along with a daily special glass and a martini from the inventive list, for $6 to $7. (1177 Davie St., ph. 604-568-9777.)
A sure sign that harvest is here, this Sunday, Langleys Krause Berry Farms plays host to Lower Mainlands Feast of Fields, the FarmFolk/CityFolk fundraiser, whose popularity has spread to Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»Island and the Okanagan. This is still the most unique way to sample the best of seasonal local bounty, from no less than 60 top restos, wineries, brewers and more, in what promises to be a dazzling, still very much summer setting. Leave the car behind and hop on the return shuttle from Choices (Cambie or Commercial stores for $15). Tickets and more details at feastoffields.com.
