There is something right about the arrival of Gurkha Himalayan Cuisine (1141 Davie St., 604-565-7965) in the West End upstairs space that used to be home to Mis Trucos. Even though the newcomer has been open for only a couple of weeks, on a damp Monday night it's already busy. Most tables are filled and there's a hum of quiet conversation mingled with the unmistakable atmosphere that accompanies satisfied diners.
We, too, were soon rewarded as we nibbled on our first tastes of aalu kaauli (cauliflower, potatoes, green peas and tomatoes with herbs and spices), and lekaali taama (bamboo shoots with black eyed peas); followed by Sherpa chicken cooked in broth over basmati rice.
Add in the living room feel of the televsion-free setting, not far removed from its original incarnation as a cozy West End home, combined with friendly service that includes a visit from the chef to every table, and it's easy to see why Gurkha is already a hit with the locals.
"A lot of people think Nepalese is like Indian food but it's not," explained co-owner and chef Shiva Marahatta, when we returned to explore further. "We have our own spices and we use less of them. And we always use fresh ingredients, with almost everything made on the spot." And it shows.
While the plates are fresh and the spicing subdued, it's more about subtlety of flavours than heat, emphasized mainly by szechuan pepper, fenugreek and cumin, often with garnishes of cilantro and parsley.
Hallmark dishes range from Thukpa, a much celebrated Tibetan-styled soup, with spinach, ginger and lemon grass and herbs; to tender gorkhali khasi, which are tender morsels of goat in a Nepalese spiced (but still mild) curry sauce; and momos, Nepal's version of the steamed dumpling packed with chicken or vegetables and served with chutney on the side.
Prices are moderate (nothing over $15), with plenty of appetizers, smaller plates and vegetarian options. Unpretentious, with a wealth of dishes to explore (next week sees an expanded menu as well as lunch service), this is casual dining at its best.
Also coming soon will be wine on tap, and a revamped wine list with more emphasis on aromatics, as well as draught beer-although there are currently a few brews by the bottle, as well as lassi (mango yogurt).
With its unassuming airs, clean flavours and thoughtfully conceived plates, Gurkha Himalayan Kitchen is not only a welcome new arrival but a serious contender to elevate the tone of dining choice in Davie Village.
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Coming soon, the Arts Club's 32nd annual California Wine Fair rolls into town for a wide ranging tasting, April 18, 7 p.m., at Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»Trade and Convention Centre at Canada Place. The largest California wine event of the year, the evening offers a chance to taste from 120 wineries and meet many of the Golden State's leading producers face to face, as well as bid in a silent auction for luxury hotel stays and gift certificates to top entertainment attractions, fine restaurants, and spas. Tickets are $75 or $65 per person for groups of six or more. For tickets and more info, call 6046871644 or go to artsclub.com.
