The Hired Belly is always impressed when a new restaurant hits the ground running. Case in point: Kerrisdale鈥檚 Neapolitan styled Pizza Bufala, which has been bustling from the moment co-owners James Iranzad and Josh Pape threw open the doors three and a half months ago.
So why Kerrisdale? Iranzad admits a few 鈥渋nformed鈥� people cautioned him about going there, thinking the leafy 鈥榟ood might be reluctant to embrace something new. But Iranzad (who grew up in Kerrisdale and went to Prince of Wales) says he found those cautionary tales always vague.
鈥淚鈥檓 convinced if you do something well, people will support you. Look at Ajisai 鈥� some of the best sushi in Vancouver. It鈥檚 always packed,鈥� he notes.
鈥淲e don鈥檛 like to compromise on quality,鈥� says Iranzad (who also co-owns Gastown鈥檚 Wildebeest with Pape). 鈥淎nd the rents aren鈥檛 cheap. But I just figured it was worth the risk. We asked ourselves, 鈥榃hat does the neighbourhood need?鈥� And the answer was clear 鈥� some sort of casual dining.
鈥淲e also asked ourselves, 鈥榃hat kind of food do we love?鈥� so that it would be genuine on our part, delicious 鈥� and suit the neighbourhood.鈥�
Bufala is all those things. Walk in (go early to make sure you get a seat) and that passion is palpable. The place hums. There鈥檚 non-stop action, from the open kitchen to the floor. And the well-executed fare is delicious.
It鈥檚 not only about the perfectly crusted pizza, which includes an excellent Margherita with ample fior di latte. Iranzad says they wanted their chefs to have fun, and it shows, often with a refreshing streak of tongue in cheek humour. Kale 鈥� everyone鈥檚 new superfood cure-all 鈥� shows up in a mildly addictive Kale Caesar Salad, anchovy and parmigiano packed, complete with a couple of rashers of crispy bacon.
Mortadella also gets the royal treatment 鈥攔oasted and served with pickled cipolini onions 鈥� while meatballs in tomato sauce come with crusty house-baked bread and lashings of basil. The food is no-nonsense, down-to-earth rustic and at the same time well thought out and smartly executed, without being contrived.
It鈥檚 a fine balance 鈥� one that carries over into the wine list and cocktails (best enjoyed with smoky Castelvetrano olives), which Iranzad proudly describes as a tad risky. 鈥淲e stayed away from the clich茅s,鈥� he says.
Bufala doesn鈥檛 pour the standard Italian Peroni beer found at just about every other Italian joint, instead opting for local draughts Red Truck, Four Winds and Dageraad Belgian.
Cocktails, too, are smart and well priced, such as refreshing Americano (Campari and sweet vermouth with soda), perfect as an aperitif. Wines, however, are faithfully Italian (and 鈥減retty obscure,鈥� admits Iranzad), ranging from Arneis and Inzolia to juicy Frappato-Nerello Mascalese and full bodied Nero Davalo Primitivo.
鈥淭hey鈥檙e not what you see on a standard wine list 鈥� but if you were in Tuscany, Naples or Amalfi on holiday, that鈥檚 what you鈥檇 be drinking with this kind of food.鈥�
Bufala, 5395 West Blvd at 42nd Ave. is open daily 11:30 am to 10 p.m.
Belly鈥檚 Budget Best
La Tarasque Old Vines Grenache 2011
What you get when you drop a talented Napa cult winemaker into the heart of southern Rhone: Grenache, with bags of character, lifted red fruit up front followed by a medium bodied palate that鈥檚 grippy but elegant with vibrant mulberry, peach and cherry before a long finish. Think spicy Italian sausage with lashings of garlic and pasta. $17.99 at B.C. Liquor Stores, 91 pts.
