The last time I bumped into Montri Rattanaraj he told me he was 鈥渨orking on something.鈥� Mind you, he鈥檚 been saying that for years 鈥� ever since 2006 when he gave up his legendary restaurant at Broadway鈥檚 west end.
It鈥檚 interesting how things unfold in the restaurant business. Just a few months ago, long-running Salt Tasting Room decided the time was right to launch a Kitsilano satellite. But as it turned out, the Kits appetite for small bites and wine flights is not as robust as Gastown鈥檚, and Salt closed almost as quickly as it opened. Perhaps the small plates craze is nearing the end of its surprisingly long run.
Enter Rattanaraj, who had long been looking for a suitable spot in which to re-open.
鈥淚 love the vibrancy of Kits, and always knew this is where I wanted to return,鈥� says the chef, who鈥檚 spent the last several winters in Thailand, partly in preparation.
However, when he took possession he wanted to keep things under wraps. Literally.
鈥淚 covered all the windows in brown paper and deliberately didn鈥檛 put up any 鈥榗oming soon鈥� signs,鈥� says Rattanaraj. 鈥淚t was very important for me to get it right, so I鈥檝e been cooking and recipe testing for a month and half.鈥�
, in part, is very much a faithful recreation of the original formula at Montri鈥檚 Thai that effectively won him the crown for so many years. All the classics are here, from ginger chicken to arguably the town鈥檚 best Tom Yum.
However, much has changed since Montri opened his first restaurant, when all the Thai rooms were 鈥渄oing the same thing,鈥� he says.
In the interim, Thailand鈥檚 tourism has truly taken off. The country is now the second most visited in the world, and Bangkok is attracting superstar chefs 鈥� everyone from Jean-Georges Vongerichten to Aussie David Thompson, who closed his London Nahm (the first Thai restaurant ever to be anointed with a Michelin one-star) to re-open in the Thai capital.
It all bodes well, says Montri, whose more traditional style will likely be a counterpoint to Angus An鈥檚 more modernist Maenam.
Now the wraps are literally off the considerably remodeled, understated grey toned room and well-tooled kitchen.
鈥淚鈥檝e always felt I owed 麻豆传媒映画something,鈥� says Montri, who鈥檇 still like to keep things quiet but admits 鈥渢he response has been unbelievable.鈥�
Somehow, we鈥檙e not surprised.
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If you ever want to take the pulse of the city鈥檚 restaurant culture, look no further than Craigslist. It currently sports a few hundred ads for everyone from managers to servers, dishwashers, line cooks, chefs de cuisine and more. No surprise, considering the slew of new arrivals and refits.
Among the newbies: Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar, the sleek new seafooder at Sutton Place, which among its team of luminaries includes Oyster Bob of Joe Fortes fame. Another keenly anticipated opening (within a couple of weeks), Chambar has upped stakes for a greatly expanded but still very heritage character space just up the street. Likely the popular spot will be even more so thanks to a considerably larger bar and lounge, along with private roof deck and wine room, plus patio 鈥� and larger kitchen. Caf茅 Medina finds a new home, under the watchful eye of chef Jonathan Chovanchek at The Hermitage.
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Deal of the week: Half price wine (from a good list) every Monday at .
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Belly鈥檚 Budget Best: Calliope Figure 8 2013. A smart blend of Sauv. Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris and Riesling that offers floral, citrus and tropical notes followed by a complex, well balanced and juicy palate with a streak of minerality. A delicious sipper or very food flexible, even for spicier plates. Great value at $16.99, 90 pts.
