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The Hired Belly: Spirited effort makes downtown distillery a reality

Long Table Distillery crafts small Batch Gin and Vodka
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A visit to Portland's "Distillery Row" inspired Rita and Charles Tremewen to launch Long Table Distillery, which produces gin and "Stoned Texada" vodka at its Hornby Street location.

If Rita and Charles Tremewen seem a tad excited, you cant blame them. The couple have just pulled the wraps off Vancouvers Long Table Distillery the citys first distillery to open in decades.

When I walked into Long Tables smart tasting room on Hornby Street, with its gleaming, handmade Christian Carl copper still clearly visible, I couldnt help but think how normal it all felt even civilized. Even more so when Charles asked me, Care for a gin and tonic?

Long Table Distillery is the end result of three nail-biting years of studying and planning since the pair were wandering Portlands Distillery Row a industrial neighbourhood thats home to six craft distillers and thought, Why not in Vancouver?

Why not, indeed? Coincidentally, it was just last month that B.C. liquor laws changed, granting more flexibility to craft distillers and the sale of their products. All of which has given Long Tables proprietors considerable peace of mind.

Currently there are two products on offer at Long Table Distillery gin and vodka. And we were impressed with both, particularly the gin. Its extremely pure and clean tasting with a definite up front juniper personality and a gentle citrus undertone, super smooth. And even though I was quite happy with my G&T, it would definitely shine in a dry martini.

Stoned Texada Vodka is so named because its filtered through Texada Island limestone.

We wanted to is create something a little different so we ran it through the limestone to polish and mineralize it, Charles says. The result is more mouthfeel and mineral character, as well as a hint of lemongrass, through which its also filtered. Charles says he already has no shortage of converts. The name is also a nod to Texada Islands Pocahontas Bay, once the site of the biggest Prohibition-era whisky still north of Vancouver.

Come spring, the First Nations foragers with whom the couple work will be back in the hills looking for juniper berries, wild ginger and mountain ash to include in new recipes being developed.

Were all about working with local people, says Charles who, under the new legislation, is already supplying restaurants Forage and Edible Vancouver.

You can buy Long Table gin ($50) and vodka ($45) from the tasting room, at 1451 Hornby St., 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Friday and Saturday. Distillery tours are offered at 4 p.m. on Saturdays. Long Table gin and vodka should be available at BCLS this spring. More info at longtabledistillery.com.

Not too many Japanese restaurants are wine savvy. Even fewer can boast a sommelier on staff. But thats not the case at Zest (MacDonald at 16th Ave., ph. 604-731-9378, zestjapanese.com), where sommelier/chef Tatsuya Katagiri pairs prawn tempura and smoked salmon with Haywires The Bub, or seared Hokkaido scallop Nigiri with Haywire Canyonview Chard. Downtowns less formal ShuRaku (ph. 604-687-6222, shuraku.net) is equally tempting. Both serve some of the best conceived (and smartly matched) plates around.

Bellys Budget Best: Que Guapo 2011

This is an affordable Malbec and Bonarda blend. The Bonarda gives it some heft and contributes to the cherry taste while the Syrah brings a bit of edge that Malbec on its own can sometimes miss. The big fruit on the palate gets balanced with some nice peppery points before a solid finish. Not fancy but pretty decent value at this price.

$14.99 at B.C. Liquor Stores, 88 pts.

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