It’s amazing how some people can make opening a restaurant look so easy. But then I wasn’t really surprised to discover that recently unveiled Good-Wolfe (1043 Mainland St., 604-428-1043) has hit the ground running. Owners Richard Goodine and Josh Wolfe are longtime industry professionals.
Goodine (who runs things out front) has managed some of the top rooms in the city, such as Black & Blue and Joe Forte, and was international export director for stellar Tuscan wine house Banfi for 10 years.
Chef Wolfe originally headed west from Toronto’s Centro to take over Coast Restaurant. He also runs Fresh | Local | Wild, one of the city’s most popular food trucks, is a keen forager and makes some of the best fish ‘n chips anywhere.
There’s no shortage of good tastes on this adventuresome, bistro-inspired menu. We’d head back in a flash for more of Wolfe’s wicked cured steelhead pastrami served with house-made maple mustard, nicely textured terrine with blueberry mustard and fresh baby greens, and a special of tender venison stew with black pepper spaetzle.
The plates are creative without being fussy and the flavours vibrant. One unexpected bonus: home-baked baguettes served in a miniature bucket.
The room is relaxingÌý and casual, dominated by the large, central square bar. A unique twist, the blackboard back wall doubles as a tongue-in-cheek wine list, with bottles attached and some amusing chalk graffiti. It’s a real attention getter — and fun. Plus, there’s a decent (heated) small patio out front where, if you’re lucky, you can still catch some early fall rays.
These are tough times for diners and restaurateurs alike. Kudos to these two for keeping the prices reasonable. Most dinner entrées are around $20 while appetizers/small plates range from $8 to $18.
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Yummy Yaletown
Good-Wolfe is one of 30 participating restos in the ninth annual Taste of Yaletown, which runs Oct. 16 to 27. For info on the wide range of menus ($25, $35. $45), tastings and special events, go to yaletowninfo.com.
A portion of profits from each meal served during Taste of Yaletown will be donated to the Greater Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»Food Bank, which has received more than $100,000 since the event began.
Blackbird sings
You won’t recognize what used to be the Keg at Hornby and Dunsmuir when you walk into the capacious, two storey Blackbird Pub & Oyster Bar, the latest offering from the ever-growing Donnelly Group. This lofty emporium sports a different feel entirely, as it’s the first in the group to offer a separate dining room. Expect good things from chef Alvin Pillay and cocktail guru (and GM) Jay Jones. And get your hair cut in the classic adjoining barber shop, complete with 100-year-old chairs.
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Best Brews
Hop heads flock to B.C. Beer Awards and Festival (Oct. 19, 1 to 6 p.m. at the Croatian Cultural Centre). Best book early if you want to sample from the 30-plus craft breweries confirmed to pour right after the awards are announced. Also on hand, the B.C. Brewmasters Calendar (which benefits the B.C. Cancer Foundation) and a table where you can even offer your input to B.C.’s Liquor Policy Reform. Tickets at bcba2013.eventbrite.ca.
Belly’s Budget Best
Chapoutier Bila Haut Cotes du Roussillon White 2012.
You can almost smell the sea air wafting off the Mediterranean in this food friendly, crisp and clean white Grenache blend with an appealing streak of minerality. BCLS $15.99 / 89 pts.
