Badger of honour
In a city where restaurants can come and go in the blink of an eye, you’d think the recent demise of Le Gavroche would have garnered a little more attention. However, the 1978 room established by the late Jean-Luc Bertrand in one of downtown’s few remaining 19th century homes (successfully nurtured until a couple of years ago by his business partner Manuel Ferreira) quietly closed its doors early this year.
The good news? In its place we have the Fat Badger (1616 Alberni St.)
Even though we’ll never know what Jean-Luc would have made of a “gastro-pub” supplanting his long running “Le Gav,” I suspect he might have appreciated the subtle irony. And if he’d been with me when I dropped by the other night, maybe he would have been tickled pink at the bustling, pubby feel. And even more impressed by the food on offer.
The shift from formal French to informal British is emblematic of what’s been happening in the U.K. There was a time not that long ago when the classic British “local” was the last place you’d go in search of a decent bite. All that changed with a shift in drinking habits and greater emphasis on food — brought home in great part by the fact that more Brits were travelling and appreciating good food elsewhere. In less than a generation “English Cuisine,” once an anathema, has gained new-found respectability.
Rather than emulate “classic” pub fare, Fat Badger chef and co-owner Neil Taylor borrows some of those originals (such as chicken and mushroom pie, Scotch eggs, and fish and chips) but then weaves in a whole lot of delicious, locally inspired plates.
A few faves: Whiskey-cured spring salmon with pea shoots, dill, mustard and crème fraîche, crispy pork belly with black pudding, colcannon and a trio of Yorkshire puddings with roast beef, gravy and horseradish. I’ll be back for another taste of the superbly textured and flavoured rabbit, duck and squab terrine, and a pint of Fuller’s IPA.
Speaking of beer, it has opted to be faithfully British, with a respectable lineup on tap that encompasses the best of Fuller’s, Guinness, Kilkenny, Smithwick’s and more, along with a decent range of bottles and cans such as McEwan’s, Newcastle Brown and Old Speckled Hen, with fair pre-tax pricing by the pint or half-pint.
“Ultimately, it’s about people getting together for good food and drink,” says co-owner Ed Perrow. “We’re aiming for a British style pub, with no TVs, no neon signs, a good draft beer selection, some nice wines and great food, using all local ingredients.”
I’d say they’ve nailed it.
Tequila sunrise
Is mezcal the new single malt? Judging by the response to last week’s Â鶹´«Ă˝Ół»International Tequila Festival, it could well be. Some 800 people showed up at the grand tasting of premium tequila, with a spotlight on mezcal.
The hotly contested cocktail competition attracted a dozen of the city’s top bartenders, who duked it out in serious style for an all-in trip to Oaxaca.
Smooth and smoky, cocktail friendly El Peloton de la Muerte Mezcal Joven, made from 100 per cent agave espadin for Mezcales de Leyenda. ($49.95) proved the perfect base for a clutch of creative sips.
At the end of the day, Kevin Brownlee, from West Restaurant, squeaked ahead of a tight pack with his La Malinche, which combined strawberry black pepper liqueur, lime, jalapeño and cacao infused reposado tequila for an intriguing interplay of ripe berry fruit, sweet and heat. Close runners up were Â鶹´«Ă˝Ół»Rowing Club’s Jason Laidlow’s Paloma Picasso and Amber Bruce of Cuchillo with La Sombremesa. My hunch is there’s not a bar worth walking into that doesn’t have some good mezcal on offer, neat or inventively mixed.
Belly’s Best
• Gray Monk Pinot Auxerrois 2012.
Maybe tough to pronounce but just call it "Pinot Ox" and you’ll be fine. From some of the Okanagan’s oldest plantings: citrus on top, followed by luscious stone-fruit and juicy acidity. Think seared scallops, grilled chicken salad, or just good summer sipping. A lot of wine for $16.99 (BCLS) 90 pts.
