Franck Point is fanatical about croissants. In fact you could call him a 鈥渃roissant croisadeur鈥� and he likely wouldn鈥檛 object. He鈥檚 the man behind Faubourg, those swish looking, chandelier-trimmed artisan bakery-bistros popping up around town (there are three so far), where you might feel yourself whisked back to that last trip to Paris, somewhere on Blvd. St. Germain.
Faubourg seduces with a wealth of temptations, ranging from flaky, Chantilly-topped, vertical mille feuille to impeccably made macarons, as well as savouries. Not to mention the 鈥渄essert of the month鈥� (July鈥檚 is an extraordinary Earl Grey, lemon and white chocolate tart), an array of superb breads (fougasse, baguette, brioche), equally excellent coffee and polished, prompt service.
As I examined the array of handmade macarons (purely for purposes of research), Point winces and extracts three from the showcase. Rejects, he says, they should never have been there, pointing out that the circumference at which the filling meets the upper and lower half 鈥� the 鈥渞uffle,鈥� as it鈥檚 known, is uneven.
The summarily excommunicated macarons will never meet a customer, let alone make it into one of Faubourg鈥檚 deluxe gift packs.
Ultimately, it鈥檚 all about the croissants, explains Point, who oversees in meticulous detail production that continues fresh throughout the day of everything from a buttery and flaky classic to pistachio cream, almond paste-filled, and 鈥� naturellement 鈥� addictive pain au chocolat.
State-of-the-art equipment, with precise moisture and temperature controls, prepare the forms over three hours for baking. It鈥檚 a critical process explains Point, along with the quality of butter he uses. Point says he doesn鈥檛 sell 10 per cent of his production, although many items are donated to charity.
Interestingly, when Point first opened he thought it would be all about baguettes. But it was not to be. On the very first day, the croissants were gone by mid-afternoon.
I鈥檓 not surprised.
(2156 West 41st, 769 Hornby St., Park Royal South, )
Romp through Provence
Here鈥檚 a cookbook that will get you in the mood for summer, and then some. Provence Food and Wine: The Art of Living by Fran莽ois Millo and Viktoria Todorovska is a glorious, unabashed romp through Provence and all it has to offer. Beautifully photographed by Millo, it鈥檚 packed with no end of well laid-out, easy-to-execute recipes, organized by four principal regions 鈥� along with smart wine matches. Think tastes like tapenade, garlic tomatoes or spot prawns. It鈥檚 available at Chapters/Indigo, amazon.ca and Barbara Jo鈥檚.
Left of centre
Speaking of things French, the wraps are off Left Bank, the more laid-back and contemporary successor to bistro Le Parisienne, which owner John Blakeley closed last month. Most notably, the post-facelift space is home to the West End鈥檚 first laneway patio, a 10-metre stretch on the south side that brings a whole new dimension, along with expansive windows onto Denman. Left Bank executive chef Spencer Watts (also at Pastis) has designed a menu he calls 鈥淔rench with a colonial twist鈥� 鈥� lamb tartar with mint pesto, seared sockeye with garlic and summer peas, sesame pommes frites and salad or organic greens with apple buttermilk emulsion, dates, fresh peas, smoked Gouda and walnut. Prices are reasonable, with plenty of bar bites and nothing over $22. (751 Denman St, 604-687-1418.)
Belly鈥檚 Best
鈥� Chateau Routas Coteaux Varois Rouviere Rose 2013 (Provence) 聽
Sustainably grown, light and lively with stonefruit and tropical hints and a touch of minerality. Very refreshing. Think saut茅ed mussels or seafood soup. BCLS $21.99, 89 pts.
