Ask people about their 鈥済o-to鈥� special occasion restaurants and invariably one of the names that pops up is Le Crocodile. Last week, chef-owner Michel Jacob staged a series of dinners to mark his remarkable restaurant鈥檚 30th anniversary. True to form, this unassuming star of Vancouver鈥檚 culinary scene shifted the spotlight away from himself by inviting chefs David Hawksworth (Hawksworth), Ned Bell (麻豆传媒映画Four Seasons, Yew) and Rob Feenie (Cactus Club) to cook with him, each for one night.
It鈥檚 fair to say all three have had a profound impact on the city, a dynamic trio of chefs that drive our tastes and also our dining philosophies 鈥� particularly sustainability 鈥� on several levels.
All three were prot茅g茅s at one time, which speaks volumes of Jacob鈥檚 contribution. As it happened, Feenie was just about ready to throw in the towel and head for a career as a firefighter when Jacob suggested he come by for lunch. Feenie signed on and Jacob became his mentor.
鈥淓very accolade I鈥檝e ever had is because of you,鈥� said Feenie after preparing a superb menu that included his Lumi猫re classic butternut squash and mascarpone ravioli with black truffle butter 鈥� a showstopper, along with roasted sea bass and lobster tempura, and a duo of prime rub and tenderloin with celery root pur茅e and black truffle port wine jus.
鈥淭he memories you have created for this city are quite remarkable,鈥� Feenie told Jacob. 鈥淭he passion is what makes great restaurants brilliant.鈥�
From bike to kitchen
Meanwhile, over at Yew, Bell is celebrating this summer鈥檚 ride across Canada with a special Chefs for Oceans menu, through Dec. 1. Bell (who鈥檚 lobbying Ottawa to proclaim March 18 National Sustainable Seafood Day) offers some intriguing and delicious pan Canadian tastes and ingredients, from fried pickerel with wild rice and pork belly, to Diefenbaker lake trout with Haskap Berries to 鈥淪urf n鈥� Turf鈥� of Osoyoos Ranch Wagyu beside B.C. spot prawns.
Last supper
Speaking of lasting legacies, last week saw the closing of Raincity Grill, only a couple of months after C鈥檚 demise, both owned by Harry Kambolis. It鈥檚 important to put into perspective the impact that these restaurants had on Vancouver鈥檚 (and Canada鈥檚) food scene, from the founding of Ocean Wise with 麻豆传媒映画Aquarium to supporting local sourcing, promoting the 100 Mile Diet, unswervingly belief in B.C. wine well before everyone jumped on the bandwagon and driving the continent鈥檚 most ambitious wines by the glass program. We suffer a loss when such pioneering, iconic rooms disappear.
Whole lotta lunch
With the holiday season around the corner, there鈥檚 no better time to head out for a celebratory lunch. Here鈥檚 three that fit the bill:
鈥� L鈥橝battoir (217 Carrall St., 604-568-1701) sports an impressive $22 ( two-course) or $29 (three- course) prix fixe. Go for the pine mushroom risotto or beef Bourguignon or splurge on the 脿 la carte beef dip.
鈥� Chambar (568 Beatty St., 604-879-7119). The new digs impress, as do the lunch offerings. Standouts range from duck confit to poulet 脿 l鈥檕range and miso tuna 鈥� all 脿 la carte.
鈥� Steel Toad (97 East Second Ave., 604-709-8623). The impressively restored, capacious Opsal Steel Building is home to the city鈥檚 newest craft brewery and dining hall. Creative pizza, sandwiches, shepherds, rilettes, steak frites and more, plus fresh brews.
Belly鈥檚 Budget Best
Grilos 2011
Good value, true Portuguese (Touriga Na莽ional, Tinta Roriz and Jaen). Medium-bodied red with appealing dark plum and cherry notes, approachable tannins and a touch of oak. The name means 鈥渃rickets,鈥� which are featured on the label! BCLS $14.99, 90 pts.
