It must be open season for new restaurants, with one iconic space filled and another about to be reincarnated.
In the heart of English Bay, the good news is the brown paper is off and the doors now open at Beach Bay Cafe and Patio, at Denman and Davie.
When Raincity Grill bit the dust a few months back, I was at first concerned but then relieved to hear the room had been picked up by the savvy Viaggio Hospitality Group, who operate Cibo, Uva Wine Bar, Red Card and the Waldorf’s Tiki Bar, among others.
Walk into the new space and you’ll be temporarily dazzled by the look thanks to a renovation that was badly needed. In truth, the overall feel hasn’t changed that much. It’s still a dynamic location, and that patio — especially given the early summer heat — is already rockin’.
I’m also impressed by the way in which the new owners have embraced Raincity’s West Coast credo. The menu is decidedly locally focused and ingredients thoughtfully sourced. I dropped by for a couple of small plates and was impressed. The dishes are well-conceived and executed with flair.
House-smoked Steelhead trout with apricot and cream is delicious, seductively textured and perfectly smoked. Another keeper, hard-to-find sweetbreads come with rhubarb and roasted baby beets. Wines are globally chosen and you can splurge, or not, as you choose. No surprise, the cocktail selection is also well-primed.
It looks as if Beach Bay Cafe (1193 Denman St., 604-685-7337, beachbaycafe.com) could assume that mantle that Raincity successfully wore over the years as the quintessential West Coast destination.
Giardino redux
Coming right up, the opening for which everyone’s been waiting: Umberto Menghi’s Giardino.
In the past week or so, all that remained of Menghi’s Il Giardino — except for the little yellow house itself — was bulldozed into oblivion to make way for more glass and steel. So it seems even more fitting that Giardino’s opening is just around the corner, hopefully by month’s end, if all goes well in the final phase.
The Tuscan-toned new room doesn’t try to precisely replicate the old. But it does add up to an homage of sorts. Diners will be wowed for all kinds of reasons both inside and out but especially by the attention to detail and little touches.
One item that did make the trip up the street, the original Il Giardino sign was saved from demolition at the last minute and is being installed beside the entrance.
For weeks, people have been popping their heads around the door asking: “When are you going to open?”
“Soon” is the answer.
Stay tuned...
Forage for Timber
On the more distant horizon, sometime this fall, the folks at Forage, in Robson Street’s Listel Hotel, will launch Timber, in the space that used to be O’Douls and was briefly an art gallery. Expect a laid back, gastro-pubby atmosphere, good taps (beer and wine), plenty of sustainable flavours and a Jervis Street patio. And, who knows? Maybe even some occasional live jazz.
Belly’s Best
• Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series Rosé 2014
Lovely, pale salmon colour in the glass, with aromas of orange, apple and red berries. A well-structured palate with citrus and zesty notes. A nod to Provence. $20, 90 pts.
