When they pulled the wraps off C Restaurant (almost a couple decades ago), it marked a defining moment in the evolution of the city’s culinary scene. At the time, there was little awareness of what constituted “sustainable seafood,” let alone a dynamic chefs’ movement to drive it. C, chef Robert Clark and several others changed all that.
Not surprisingly, these thoughts were front of mind as I settled into my chair at Ancora — the recently unveiled successor to C — in that strikingly attractive spot on the north seawall of False Creek.
How, I wondered, might the new regime pay tribute to the room’s heritage? And, if so, how would they at the same time chart an entirely fresh course?
Interestingly, and quite cleverly, Ancora achieves both, first by wholly embracing the sustainable mantra with an assertive marine emphasis, and then by wrapping it up with a definite nod to both Peruvian (it’s a thing now) and Japanese influences. With the talents of sushi maestro Yoshi Tabo and Peruvian-raised executive chef Ricardo Valverde aboard, such lofty and seemingly disparate goals are readily achieved.
A taste of Yoshi’s unabashedly spiced Albacore tuna roll or superbly textured Aburi scallop with prawn combo make for the perfect teaser.
To kick off the holidays in style, it would be tough to beat the cornucopian Ancora Glacier — think of it as a kind of horizontal seafood tower — a raised platter laden with oysters on the half shell, crab causa, Salt Spring mussels with a zesty Peruvian escabeche twist, poached prawns, sashimi and more. It’s a decadent celebration deserving of some fancy bubbles or Riesling.
More highlights include a superbly textured Nova Scotia lobster risotto with bluefoot mushrooms and roasted cauliflower ($23/$46); panca-glazed sablefish with yam oregano pavé, chermoula, fennel and leek ($34); gently smoked yellowfin with daikon, yu choy and dashi broth ($33). Naturally Good Farm Chicken also gets a (fairly salty) cross cultural nod, with potato risotto, braised kale, prosciutto, peanuts and a panca mole jus.
Can we just say that pastry chef Amy Lee’s desserts totally rock? Especially the irresistible Ancora chocolate bar with rum gel and salted caramel. All this, a smartly reconfigured space with greatly improved upstairs and smart wine pairings from double threat GM/sommelier Andrea Vescovi (ex-Blue Water) make Ancora a worthy successor and contender. ancoradining.com.
Eye on the Tiger
A newbie of an entirely different breed, Torafuku is the buzz-worthy brainchild of Clement Chan and Steve Kuan, who sashayed over from their popular Le Tigre food truck to this Main Street bricks and mortar namesake salute. (Torafuku means “Lucky Tiger.”) More than a few Pan Asian offerings now dot the Â鶹´«Ă˝Ół»landscape, and some very good. But in my mind, Torafuku — which joyfully gallops across Japan, Korea, Taiwan and Vietnam for inspiration — eclipses them all. And joyful is the word here, as the space and dishes are exuberant.
The cheekily mockered dishes appear deceptively casual and sometimes even roguishly haphazard. But their ingredients add up to often innovative and always smartly balanced combinations. Hard pressed to pick favourites, we were dazzled by smoky, tender Peter Piper’s Peppers, “Rye So Messy” chicken wings (Gochujang marinated), kick-ass rice, Dr. Octopus vs. Mr. Tuna... and more.
The boldly modern room itself had my architect companion in awe, with its yards of polished cement (including a giant communal table), open kitchen, comfortable banquettes and quieter corner, as well as smartly aligned conversation friendly baffles.
With its smart wines and cocktails, laid-back-but-intelligent service and affordable prices, Mr. Tiger’s Torafuku is one to watch. torafuku.ca.
