Now that the Cactus Club at English Bay is finally open, we thought it time for a test drive, which we did anonymously on a busy evening last week.
On arrival (no reservations), you'll be given a pager that vibrates when your table's ready, which means you can hang around on the beach while you wait. Why not?
The usual Cactus Club menu and wine list have been tweaked to reflect a local feel, with more specific seafood offerings and tailor-made specials-making it an ideal spot to take out of town guests, which we did. The two-tier space is compact-the kitchen even more so-and everything from bellinis to burgers has to make the trip upstairs courtesy of one narrow staircase. Anyone working here can happily consign their stair-master to the dump.
Our servers were cheerfully engaging, polished and competent. After a round of cocktails, as our starters arrived, we reminded ourselves what a stroke of genius it was for the Cactus Club franchise to have hired Rob Feenie as its "food concept architect." The former Lumiere owner has elevated the fare well above the standard we used to expect from casual fine dining.
Our Ocean Wise tuna tataki was superb: perfectly seared outside and rare within, on a bed of bean shoots, with avocado and papaya chunks in a yuzu vinaigrette. It's a generously sized small plate that could be shared, and great value at $14. Another standout, a trio of butternut squash and prawn ravioli arrived with the prawns precisely cooked and the plate well detailed ($14).
We like the fact that people, especially visitors, can come to a place so quintessentially a part of Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»as English Bay and enjoy well contrived and responsibly sourced cuisine that's truly representative of what the region has to offer. (If only B.C. Ferries could attempt to do something similar.)
We won't detail the entire six or seven items we tried but, suffice to say, from the customized chicken burger to pesto chicken quesadilla, they were all impeccably executed. Sebastien Le Goff's wine list is short but smart. A bottle of dry white Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($32) was a great match. (Available at B.C. Liquor Stores for $14.99.)
It pays to get there early: The place is already hopping and, with the final arrival of spring warmth, the patio lineup starts early.
If you want a quieter setting, it's worth waiting a little longer for upstairs, while the bar area and main patio access downstairs is more energized. As far as asking for a window table, why bother? The space is so compact there's barely a viewless seat in the house. Plus, a word of caution, on sunny days this southwest facing spot warms up fast, although staff are quick to adjust the blinds.
If customers vote with their feet, you can assume that this much-discussed newcomer is a more than welcome addition to what's already on offer.
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Still looking for a place to fête Mom? We might be inclined to head down to splurge at Fairmont Waterfront's Herons, where newly landed executive chef Dana Hauser is putting some spring in the menu. Newfoundland-born Hauser, who's just been appointed as Fairmont's first female executive chef, comes to Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»via Bermuda and the Royal York. With her refreshingly down to earth, sustainable approach and penchant for local ingredients, we think she may put Herons back on the map. Westside Trafalgars Bistro (604-739-0555) also gets a nod for its $38 per person, three-course brunch, offered Saturday and Sunday.
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Last call for Dish 'n Dazzle. Savour plates from 12 top restaurants paired with the wines of Argentina, along with a chance to catch leading bartenders in competition, in a tasty soirée at the Fairmont Waterfront, May 16. Tickets online at dishndazzle.com.
