Sitting in The Mexican, Antojitos y Cantina, I'm trying to make sense of a couple of things. One is the grainy black-and-white movie that's showing an obviously hilarious comedy sequence involving a not-so-deft barber and unsuspecting customers. The other is the fact that the last time I was here a couple of years ago, there were tapas on the menu and a Barca vs. Real Madrid game on the television.
On this night, The Mexican, (1049 Granville St., 604-569-0955) is bustling. Owner Roger Creixams says it's been that way since last spring when he decided to drop the traditional Spanish fare and transform his Cafe Barcelona into its current Mexican incarnation.
Delving into a plate of nachos with homemade guacamole, I begin to get the feeling it's also going to work for me. The plates are generous - even the appetizers are big enough to share - and the ingredients as uncluttered and honest as the no-nonsense decor.
Our faves range from the Lengua (beef tongue) tacos to the voluminous barrigon, a kind of deconstructed mixed grill of pork, beef and chorizo platter with cheese and jalapeno, which is way more appetizing than it sounds.
But you can also fare well by ordering the house antojitos platter, an assortment of chicharron de queso, pico de gallo, crispy house chips, salad, sopes, quesadillas and more, for $18.
One welcome leftover from the Spanish regime is the Castillo Monseran Spanish Red, which goes for a reasonable $6 a glass, and makes up half the wine list.
Creixams says he's always enjoyed true "traditional market style" Mexican food, as opposed as to what's often passed off in its place. A chance encounter with Mexican chef Ana Vander (who worked at nearby Salsa and Agave) led him to make the change, with the chef as partner, along with friend Claudia Roma. Pooling their respective front-of-house and culinary talents, they've fashioned a vibrant, friendly and affordable room that's gaining a well-deserved reputation for some of the best Mexican food in the city. We'll be back.
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Fets Bar and Grill on Commercial Drive is gathering steam as one of the city's best places to explore the world of single malts, with more than 360 whiskies on offer from the newly crafted bar made from trees downed in the Stanley Park storm of 2006. Eric and Allura Fergie also host occasional tastings at the West Coast Single Malt Whisky Club. If you're seriously into malts, such as an extraordinary "Welsh" from Penderyn, you'll want to check out a membership that gives access to one-of-a-kind single cask, single malt, numbered offerings each month. Call Edgemont Fine Spirits (604-984-9463) for more info.
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Our newest favourite hang-out for a quick glass and a bite is TWB (as in The Wine Bar) at Provence Marinaside (1167 Marinaside Crescent, at the foot of Davie, 604-681-4144) where Jean Francis and Alessandra Quaglia have turned what used to be the original entrance into a compact, sexy bar. Here you can sample a number of small bites and decent wines in a relaxing but sleekly appointed setting. Choose from 50 wines by the glass and some on tap, including Haywire, Stag's Hollow and Meyer Family Vineyards paired with $5 to $6 small bites and $18 mains.
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