The first thing that struck me about Burdock and Co. (2702 Main St., 604-879-0077) is that it feels as if its been there for years. In fact, barely a couple of months have passed since chef Andrea Carlson pulled the wraps off her Main Street room.
Carlson and her architect partner, Kevin Bismanis, took over the space vacated by Cafeteria. While the previous incarnation was deliberately industrial, the feel now is more recycled country meets urban funk. Almost everything and anything is repurposed, from weathered barn boards to the salvaged white slat ceiling.
Its a comfortable space with an open kitchen and front-line bar seating, as well as a communal table that fills quickly.
Then theres the menu. Just when you thought it might be twilight time for everything Pacific Northwest this or locally sourced that, along comes Carlson to shake up our assumptions that weve seen it all when it comes to regional cuisine.
The chef, who cut her seasonal regional teeth on Raincity Grills 100- Mile menu and further honed her organic sourcing skills at Bishops, has dug deep to come up with ingredients for dishes that are novel in a widening sea of predictability.
The emphasis is on organic, with a broad choice of vegetarian and vegan offerings on this list (as well as carnivorous indulgence) that will constantly evolve based on whats available.
It all makes for a smart combination of choices and suggests you dont necessarily have to pursue a strictly vegetarian menu. In fact, offering a broader appeal just makes more sense, particularly if the foundation is as solid as here.
Some of the tastes that wowed us? For one, the contrasting textures and vibrant colours of cherry leaf cured scallops with rice crackers and cracked cherry pit ice.
We could also become a committed fan of the organic Metro Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»farmed Urban Digs egg, which comes soft poached and served with shaved asparagus and arugula salad, potato and light vinaigrette. Another keeper that will have us heading back is the house-made heritage pork and burdock sausage, deliciously served with wild dandelion and potato salad.
Carlsons inventiveness and willingness to forage beyond the norm are unfettered and shes not scared to take risks as in fire roasted green farro (wheat berry), an intriguing riff on risotto with spruce tips and black garlic.
That determined mantra of originality extends to an inventive and locally foraged cocktail menu, courtesy of Kale & Noris Lauren Mote. Try the summery whiskey Saison, ginger beer with burdock root and sour and various bitters and youll be challenged to resist another. Also of note, the citys (so far) best offering of natural wines that includes the vibrant, apple-toned (Hungarian) Chateau Megyer Dry Furmint, and aromatic and stone fruit Elbin Fuchs Riesling (Alsace).
Plates are smaller to mid-sized but prices are moderate (most $14 to $20), with some superb desserts (all $8) such as the wicked salted caramel apple pot pie.
Sipping around the newbies at this years Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»Craft Beer Week kick-off, we didnt yet know that Powell Street Brewings Old Jalopy Pale Ale had scooped the Canadian Brewing Awards Beer of the Year. But it was easy to see why this perfectly balanced, not too hoppy and not too alcoholic but with a still decent kick brew scooped the field.
A foray next day found us lined up with a score of others for more of the same (in growlers and bottles) as well as smooth chocolate-toned Dive Bomb Porter and well-named Hopdemonium IPA.
Open Wednesday to Saturday, 1 to 7 p.m., 1830 Powell St., 604-558-2537.
