David Hawksworth is looking as cool as a proverbial cucumber. And why not? His long-awaited namesake restaurant in the newly minted Rosewood Georgia Hotel is finally open.
It's been a long time since we gushed about a newcomer, so consider yourself warned.
To be fair, Hawksworth, the man, is no newcomer. Having worked for celebrated Raymond Blanc (at Oxford's Michelin two-star Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons) and under Marco Pierre White (as head chef at London's famed L'Escargot), the chef returned to his hometown in 2000 to open West. Now with a string of restaurant-of-the-year awards under his belt, Hawksworth is at the top of his game.
When West arrived on the scene, Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»was barely off training wheels in its quest for a more defined local cuisine. But it didn't take long before Hawksworth was at the vanguard of the regionalseasonal movement, well before the arrival of the 100 Mile Diet and ensuing love affair with local producers.
The renovated Rosewood Hotel Georgia is, in a word, gorgeous. And a meal at Hawksworth is a seamless experience, best begun in the intimate charcoal and ivory, leather-trimmed bar and lounge that sets the tone for the dazzling retro surroundings of the two principal rooms. The Pearl Room, with its detailed wall panels and giant oval crystal chandelier, just off the kitchen, sports more of a buzz. More removed, the Art Room is quieter, though still vibrant, thanks to a wall-long, boldly coloured installation by internationally acclaimed Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»artist Rodney Graham.
Taking advantage of the recession-imposed delay, Hawksworth and team had plenty of time to plan every last detail, including a state-of-the-art kitchen and temperature-controlled, glass-wrapped wine room, with one of the city's more interesting selections.
Hawksworth lured talented Terry Threlfall back from London (where he was head sommelier at Michelin-starred Chez Bruce) to be Wine Director and Sommelier, and installed Kristian Eligh (exMarket) as chef de cuisine.
The similarities to West are primarily on the plates, which underscore the chef's penchant for inventive ingredients, cleverly combined and never compromised by over-the-top sauces or cumbersome presentation. The style is sparse, with highlights directed by contrasting textures such as yellowfin tuna carpaccio over velvet avocado with rice.
Even when the flavours are adventuresome, as with the medium rare beef tenderloin with smoked bone marrow, a separate streak of chimichurri sauce is the perfect balance.
Hawksworth's dishes impress and shine, especially the combination of crispy Fraser Valley pork belly with diced chorizo, topped with tender baby pea shoots beside paperthin oyster mushrooms. Paired with Skillogallee Clare Valley Riesling Trevarrick Vineyard '07, it's emblematic of what this kitchen is all about.
Considering the surroundings, detail-driven service and calibre of cuisine, prices are moderate compared to most higher end rooms. Once word gets out, Hawksworth's sixcourse tasting menu will be one of the town's hottest tickets, especially given its well chosen pairings: $114 all in.
Does Hawksworth signal a return to formal dining in Vancouver? To some degree, yes. The salon-style setting may be a nod to Mayfair and Knightsbridge, but the mood, cuisine and service are West Coast: a long-anticipated, uniquely Â鶹´«Ã½Ó³»salute that more than meets expectations. We can't wait to go back.
Hawksworth Restaurant at Rosewood Hotel Georgia, 801 West Georgia, 604-673-7000.
